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Chimney Rock
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South Chimney 

Chimney Rock 


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Elevation: 11,781'
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Oct 25, 2009

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Chimney Peak from the approach trail.

Description 

Apparently I'm not the only one to be lessed than jazzed by the Chimney Peak climb. The south side of the rock has a scratchy, crumbly looking chimney that has been climbed off and on for a long time. We went up to give it a look this Fall and ended up scouting the boulders instead. Still, it is a spectacular crag and the view from the top is probably magnificent.


Getting There 

From a couple of miles north of Ridgway, take CR 10, The Owl Creek Pass Road, to the east. After 15.8 miles you reach the pass and continue for an additional 0.3 miles to the West Fork Road. Turn right into the West Fork drainage and continue for 1.6 miles to a broad meadow. Chimney Peak looms over the road and the trailhead is easy to spot on the right a little further up the road.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chimney Rock:
South Chimney   5.7 R     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III   
Browse More Classics in Chimney Rock

Featured Route For Chimney Rock
On the approach. Make note of the ridge to the left.  John photo.

South Chimney 5.7 R  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Chimney Rock
Chimney Rock is eye catching to anyone, especially a climber. I have a feeling this gets attempted way more than it gets done though. The approach is as tough as the climbing. Climb up fun and sometimes unprotectable cobble for 3 pitches. Then do an optional 4th pitch traverses to the summit, it's nice to have protection for a step across a chasm.When heading to the start of the route, head toward the small summit on the ridge south of the peak, walk up steep unpleasantness. 5th class scram...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Comments on Chimney Rock Add Comment
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By Fleetwood Matt
Apr 30, 2010

The summit view is incredible. You can see all the way out to the Henry Mountains in Utah. While most of the Cimarron rock is the perfect medium for gear-ripping 20 foot groundfalls, the standard SW chimney route of Chimney Rock is a great 5.8 adventure. Bring a #4 Camalot. Enjoy!

By knights that say ni
Jul 1, 2012

The 1.6 miles is to the Court House Peak trailhead. Wrong trail. You want to park about a half mile before that, there is a 4 wheeler track that takes you way up into the basin. At the first 20 foot cliff band on the approach, go right around it then back left, we went behind a big boulder to get up the next and last cliff band. On the climb, your 6 biggest cams will protect the whole route. With a single 60m rope, you can rappel from the summit; 2 raps to the top of the second pitch, then 2 more down the route.

By Sarah Meiser
From: Boulder, Colorado
Aug 17, 2012

Chimney ROCK. At least that's its official name, not Chimney Peak. Why does this bother me? :)

Edit: From a great Trail & Timberline article (Fall 2012), "It is officially named Chimney Rock but has been known locally as Chimney Peak."