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Chimney Rock

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South Chimney T 

Chimney Rock  


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Elevation: 11,781'
Location: 38.1458, -107.5695 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,737
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Oct 25, 2009
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Description 

Apparently I'm not the only one to be lessed than jazzed by the current Chimney Rock climbs. The south side of the rock has a scratchy, crumbly looking chimney that has been climbed off and on for a long time. We went up to give it a look this Fall and ended up scouting the boulders instead. Still, it is a spectacular crag and the view from the top is probably magnificent.

Getting There 

From a couple of miles north of Ridgway, take CR 10, The Owl Creek Pass Road, to the east. After 15.8 miles you reach the pass and continue for an additional 0.3 miles to the West Fork Road. Turn right into the West Fork drainage and continue for 1.6 miles to a broad meadow. Chimney Rock looms over the road and the trailhead is easy to spot on the right a little further up the road.

Climbing Season



Weather station 9.6 miles from here

1 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chimney Rock:
South Chimney   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches   
Browse More Classics in Chimney Rock

Featured Route For Chimney Rock
On the approach. Make note of the ridge to the left.  John photo.

South Chimney 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Chimney Rock
Chimney Rock is eye catching to anyone, especially a climber. I have a feeling this gets attempted way more than it gets done though. The approach is as tough as the climbing. Climb up fun and sometimes unprotectable cobble for 3 pitches. Then do an optional 4th pitch traverses to the summit, it's nice to have protection for a step across a chasm.When heading to the start of the route, head toward the small summit on the ridge south of the peak, walk up steep unpleasantness. 5th class scram...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Chimney Rock Slideshow Add Photo
View from a scramble around the west side of Chimney Rock. This would be a Hell of a place to hand drill but may be worth the effort. There is a lot of good stone here, and there is some that is bad. However, it is dumbfounding that there are only a scant few routes on this crag.
View from a scramble around the west side of Chimn...

Comments on Chimney Rock Add Comment
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By Fleetwood Matt
Apr 30, 2010
The summit view is incredible. You can see all the way out to the Henry Mountains in Utah. While most of the Cimarron rock is the perfect medium for gear-ripping 20 foot groundfalls, the standard SW chimney route of Chimney Rock is a great 5.8 adventure. Bring a #4 Camalot. Enjoy!
By knights that say ni
Jul 1, 2012
The 1.6 miles is to the Court House Peak trailhead. Wrong trail. You want to park about a half mile before that, there is a 4 wheeler track that takes you way up into the basin. At the first 20 foot cliff band on the approach, go right around it then back left, we went behind a big boulder to get up the next and last cliff band. On the climb, your 6 biggest cams will protect the whole route. With a single 60m rope, you can rappel from the summit; 2 raps to the top of the second pitch, then 2 more down the route.
By Sarah Meiser
From: Boulder, Colorado
Aug 17, 2012
Chimney ROCK. At least that's its official name, not Chimney Peak. Why does this bother me? :)

Edit: From a great Trail & Timberline article (Fall 2012), "It is officially named Chimney Rock but has been known locally as Chimney Peak."
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 10, 2013
Re:Chimney ROCK. At least that's its official name, not Chimney Peak. Why does this bother me? :)

While it may not be worth too much BS&T, Chimney Peak is arguably the appropriate name. Ormes, in his Guide to Colorado Mountains, has referred to it as Chimney Peak since the first printing in 1952. So, it is not just a local moniker. Ormes notes that Chimney Peak distinguishes it from the numerous other Chimney Rocks in Colorado, including those in the San Juans. Ormes has been something of a Bible, at least for myself, when it comes to Colorado mountains, although some of his trail descriptions are now dated, including that for Chimney Rock. So, I have tended to side with his nomenclature. However, the Trails Illustrated map uses Chimney Rock as do some of the USGS maps.