Chimney Rock is a unique granite tower that sits atop of the Selkirk range in north Idaho's panhandle. It has been called the "lightning rod" of North Idaho.
The West Face was climb in 1934 by John Carey, Mart Chamberlain, Fred Theime, and Byron Ward. It was soloed in 1935 by John Boothe. At 5.3 this is with out a doubt the most repeated route on Chimney.
Ed Cooper and Don Bergman in 1959 did the Northeast Face (5.8, A2) It was freed in 1980 by D.Burns & M. Colby.(5.10d) The east face was then climbed in 1961 by Ed Cooper and Dave Hiser and freed by John Roskelley and Chris Kopczynski in 1967.(Cooper-Hiser 5.9) Fred Beckey and Jerry Fuller in 1968 found the summit by way of the South Nose route 5.7 A2/5.9. The list of strong climbers go's on and on.
"Climber's Guide to North Idaho & the Cabinet Wilderness" by Thaddeus Laird 2007. This is a the only todate guide and seems to be lacking the long and rich climbing history that North Idaho enjoys. The drive is 10 miles of dirt road and can take up to 50 mimutes. At Hunt Creek road turn right, at 4.0 mile mark take the left fork. The last 1/3 mile before the Horton Ridge trailhead can be very rough.
Start up the Cooper/Hiser but take a right asap and climb up a bit of thin crack to a hanging belay below the wide crack and obvious roof. Climb up through the roof on hands and stemming (the crux) and finish the tips crack on the headwall and then climb right into Free Friends. Instead of traversing right when possible finish by the PG13 last pitch up the crack to its end finishing with face climbing and the mantels through the over laps. ...[more]Browse More Classics in ID