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Chimney Rock

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East Face/Chimney Rock 
West Face/Chimney Rock 

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Chimney Rock 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,124'
Location: 48.6191, -116.6967 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,246
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: David Stephens on Feb 26, 2008
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"Chimney Rock"

Description 

Chimney Rock is a unique granite tower that sits atop of the Selkirk range in north Idaho's panhandle. It has been called the "lightning rod" of North Idaho.

The West Face was climb in 1934 by John Carey, Mart Chamberlain, Fred Theime, and Byron Ward. It was soloed in 1935 by John Boothe. At 5.3 this is with out a doubt the most repeated route on Chimney.

Ed Cooper and Don Bergman in 1959 did the Northeast Face (5.8, A2) It was freed in 1980 by D.Burns & M. Colby.(5.10d) The east face was then climbed in 1961 by Ed Cooper and Dave Hiser and freed by John Roskelley and Chris Kopczynski in 1967.(Cooper-Hiser 5.9) Fred Beckey and Jerry Fuller in 1968 found the summit by way of the South Nose route 5.7 A2/5.9. The list of strong climbers go's on and on.


Getting There 

"Climber's Guide to North Idaho & the Cabinet Wilderness" by Thaddeus Laird 2007. This is a the only todate guide and seems to be lacking the long and rich climbing history that North Idaho enjoys. The drive is 10 miles of dirt road and can take up to 50 mimutes. At Hunt Creek road turn right, at 4.0 mile mark take the left fork. The last 1/3 mile before the Horton Ridge trailhead can be very rough.


10 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',1],['5.11',3],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chimney Rock:
Rappel Chimney   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   West Face/Chimney Rock
Browse More Classics in Chimney Rock

Featured Route For Chimney Rock
Just off the hanging belay taken from the 2nd belay ledge on FFs.  Both taken during the 1st ascent.

Tsumani 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a PG13  ID : Chimney Rock : East Face/Chimney Rock
Start up the Cooper/Hiser but take a right asap and climb up a bit of thin crack to a hanging belay below the wide crack and obvious roof. Climb up through the roof on hands and stemming (the crux) and finish the tips crack on the headwall and then climb right into Free Friends. Instead of traversing right when possible finish by the PG13 last pitch up the crack to its end finishing with face climbing and the mantels through the over laps. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in ID

Photos of Chimney Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Max Dufford on YAHOODY, East Face.
Max Dufford on YAHOODY, East Face.
Sticky Fingers 5.10d on the West Face of Chiney Rock. First ascent by Gwain Oka and Hilary Bates summer 1980.  Gwain leading in this pic.
Sticky Fingers 5.10d on the West Face of Chiney Ro...
The thin crack of ILLUSIONS, East Face of Chiney Rock.  FA Dane Burns and Mark Colby 1981.
The thin crack of ILLUSIONS, East Face of Chiney R...
Fun Roof, West Face.  Gwian Oka climbing.  1st ascent done in 1980 by G. Oka, H. Bates and D. Burns
Fun Roof, West Face. Gwian Oka climbing. 1st asc...
Chimney Rock shadow
Chimney Rock shadow
Graymatter, 5.11c, the first 5.11 done at Chimney Rock, NE Face. F/A by D. Burns and Chuck Hartshorn  June 1980
Graymatter, 5.11c, the first 5.11 done at Chimney ...
The roof pitch of Illusions/Free Friends, 5.11a, East Face of Chimney rock.  FA Mark Colby and D. Burns 1981
The roof pitch of Illusions/Free Friends, 5.11a, E...
Max Dufford on ther crux pitch of Yahoody, 5.11b.  F/A Dane and Darcy Burns, 1980.
Max Dufford on ther crux pitch of Yahoody, 5.11b. ...
Jill Mattern following UNI, 5.12a.  The first 5.12 on Chimney rock.  F/A D. Burns and Jill Mattern summer '88
Jill Mattern following UNI, 5.12a. The first 5.12...
How do we get off this thing?
How do we get off this thing?
Jay Koopsen and Dane Burns on the 2nd pitch of Tsumani during the 1st ascent, 5.11+ R on the East Face of Chimney rock.  F/A 1986.
Jay Koopsen and Dane Burns on the 2nd pitch of Tsu...
Rainbow, clearing storm
Rainbow, clearing storm
Comments on Chimney Rock Add Comment
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By David Stephens
From: Spokane WA.
Aug 11, 2012

The east face seen a large rock fall this year and many routes have been changed on the left side. rock fall