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Chimney Rock, located right in HVCG, has a few nice routes - Pinched Rib (5.10b), a short bolted dike, The Flue, an oft overlooked fun 5.8 handcrack, and West Face Overhang (5.7) are the most popular. Damper (5.9), just left of Pinched Rib, is a good wide crack to practice your fist jamming/offwidth technique.
The new road into HVCG passes directly by the south face of Chimney Rock. The quartz dike is Pinched Rib. If that isn't enough direction, find Intersection Rock and walk NE.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chimney Rock:
Featured Route For Chimney Rock
West Face Overhang 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Chimney Rock - West Face
This climb is located at the left end of the west face of Chimney Rock. Start just right of a large boulder and head up into a short chimney. Then up and right, up and right and up. This is a good climb for a new leader to learn about slings, rope drag, and setting a belay. Perhaps break the climb into 2 pitches to avoid serious rope drag, and if doing so belay just before or after the traverse under the roof. There are bolts on top to rap the backside and into the "chimney". You can scramble do...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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