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Chimney Rock - West Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ballet T 
Break Dancing T 
Damper T 
Dirty Dancing T 
Dyno in the Dark T 
Howard's Horror, Direct T 
Pinched Rib T 
West Face Overhang T 

Chimney Rock - West Face  

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Page Views: 16,590
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on Oct 16, 2007

83° | 60°

85° | 61°
Columbus Day

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Chimney Rock-climber on "Pinched Rib". P...


The west face of Chimney Rock is the more popular side and gets morning shade and afternoon sun. Ratings range from 5.7 to 5.11b, and there's even an aid climb (A2+) for those into that sort of thing. Recommended routes to do include the circuitous West Face Overhang (5.7), the hand/fist crack of Damper (5.9) and the highly popular dike of Pinched Rib (5.10a).

Safety Warning: The descent route down the "chimney" that splits the formation is filled with huge blocks and debris from a massive rockfall in the summer of 1994 when the route Loose Lips (5.11a) collapsed. While still possible to downclimb the chimney it's best avoid this route to avoid any multi-ton blocks shifting as you weight them.

Getting There 

Approach from points within the Campground or park in the day use parking lot beneath Intersection Rock and walk east to the visible formation.

Climbing Season

Weather station 10.0 miles from here

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chimney Rock - West Face:
Damper   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Dyno in the Dark   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Pinched Rib   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Chimney Rock - West Face

Featured Route For Chimney Rock - West Face
West Face Overhang

West Face Overhang 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Chimney Rock - West Face
This climb is located at the left end of the west face of Chimney Rock. Start just right of a large boulder and head up into a short chimney. Then up and right, up and right and up. This is a good climb for a new leader to learn about slings, rope drag, and setting a belay. Perhaps break the climb into 2 pitches to avoid serious rope drag, and if doing so belay just before or after the traverse under the roof. There are bolts on top to rap the backside and into the "chimney". You can scramble do...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Chimney Rock - West Face Slideshow Add Photo
Chimney Rock-West Face. Photo by Blitzo.
Chimney Rock-West Face. Photo by Blitzo.
Chimney Rock-West Face. Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Chimney Rock-West Face. Photo by Blitzo.
Moonrise during the 2012 New Year.
Moonrise during the 2012 New Year.

Comments on Chimney Rock - West Face Add Comment
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By ryan1024
Dec 31, 2014
This is the face featured in the 1948 (?) Ansel Adams photo "Rocks and Moon".
Ansel Adams "Rocks and Moon" (Chimney Ro...
Ansel Adams "Rocks and Moon" (Chimney Rock - west face)
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