Looking through the chimney from the belay ledge a...
This is the "backside" and less popular side of Chimney Rock; it gets morning sun and afternoon shade and has a handful of routes from 5.8 to 5.12c despite it's large size. Recommended routes on this side include The Flue
(5.8) a classic face to slanting hand crack, Blind Ambition
(5.11a) a technical and balancy face that requires some additional gear and Camouflage (5.12c) a highly technical face that sees little action despite it's easily accessible location. Safety Warning
: The descent route down the "chimney" that splits the formation is filled with huge blocks and debris from a massive rockfall in the summer of 1994 when the route Loose Lips (5.11a) collapsed. While still possible to downclimb the chimney it's best avoid this route to avoid any multi-ton blocks shifting as you weight them.
Approach from points within the Campground or park in the day use parking lot beneath Intersection Rock and walk east to the visible formation and then circle around the left side of the formation to reach the east face.
Weather station 10.0 miles from here
4 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Chimney Rock - East Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chimney Rock - East Face:
The Flue 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For Chimney Rock - East Face
The Flue 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c CA
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : Chimney Rock - East Face
The route beings with vertical face past several horizontals (gear to 1.5") to a step left into a long right-slanting hand crack. Midway up the crack step right a bit and employ a combination of crack and face climbing which leads one to a large ledge with bolted anchors.This is an often overlooked route that is on par with some of the more popular Hidden Valley classics that often have a line of people on them. If you haven't done this climb check it out - you may be pleasantly surprised....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Local Information for Chimney Rock - East Face
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Chimney Rock-East Face. Photo by Blitzo.