A fun, part crack, part stemming climb. Go up to the back of the cleft in the rock and climb staright up.
Small to 4"
Floyd Hayes zipping up Chimney Crack. Photo by Che...
Emily Jio climbing the chimney crack(5.8). Photo ©...
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 28, 2005
I hesitate to give this a PG rating since it is only about 25' long; however, pro is somewhat marginal towards the top of the route so a lead fall *could* result in a ground fall. Just a heads-up if you're thinking of leading it.
|By Floyd Hayes|
Mar 22, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
After previewing it on rappel, the pro looked good so I led it and felt secure, zipping it up with six cams, all of which I trusted to hold at least a short fall. However, as a lead it felt like 5.9.
|By Aaron Formella|
From: Atascadero, CA
Oct 21, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Unique climbing style for the Central Coast. Perhaps that is why it felt like 5.9 on lead, but is probably 5.8ish. Both the climbing and gear feel insecure but the gear is actually quite good and placement opportunities are abundant (every 3 feet or less). I found a small peanut to be useful and a red tricam does the trick for that cubic pocket about midway up.