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El Rito Traditional Area
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Big "E", The T 
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Juniper Direct T 
Juniper Overhang T 
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Weapons of Mass Construction T 

Chile Verde 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 863
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Jan 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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The first pitch and belay on Chile Verde.

Description 

P1. Climb a shallow corner past a small, gnarled juniper to a small overhang. Climb through the overhang on the right side and continue past another small overhang to a spacious ledge (Juniper Ledge) with another tree on it. Belay at a pair of new bolts. Long pitch.

P2. Above the belay, climb the steep face and left facing dihedral capped by a small roof. Once over the roof, follow cracks to the top. Much of the second pitch is 4th class climbing. Belay at another pair of bolts near the top.

To descend, either scramble to the top and follow the trail down and left through the rocky gully, or rappel the route with a pair of ropes.

Location 

Located near the center of the wall where the access trail intersects the base of the crag. Look for an obvious black water streak Chile Verde starts at the left facing dihedral to the left of the streak.

Protection 

Standard trad rack. Bolted belays.


Photos of Chile Verde Slideshow Add Photo
Protecting the initial dihedral on P2.
Protecting the initial dihedral on P2.
Amy on the p2 variation (climber's right) of Chile...
Amy on the p2 variation (climber's right) of Chile...

Comments on Chile Verde Add Comment
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By scotthsu
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 9, 2009

We did a slight variation of p2 today. Instead of going up the left facing dihedral, I stepped out climber's right onto the face and went up over a bulge and then another bulge (5.8) before some easier climbing up to the bolted anchors. This pitch has a lot of options, and although the rock is somewhat broken in places, I thought it was still worth doing. (Gary Clark's guide, under the Refritos route description, said the rock is poor quality and not worth doing.)
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 9, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The 'correct' line for pitch 1 is probably not where shown in Taos Rock. It should be to the right, where #7 is. Since both books adopted Clarks' names, probably that resource is most accurate. Not that it's a big deal- it's all mostly 5.4-5.6 with intermittent pro.