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North Stars Wall
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Black Magic T 
Break it Out T 
Childhood's Beginning  T 
Childhood's End T 
Free and Easy  T 
Ice Pirates  S 

Childhood's Beginning  

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 481
Submitted By: urs on Aug 3, 2009

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Description 

This beautiful dihedral is one of the few 5.8 splinter finger cracks at Donner Summit and follows a thin splinter finger crack on the arete and then traverses into the dihedral. Sustained and a bit tricky for the grade, but holds solid pro.


Location 

This is located to the right of Childhood's End 5.10d and starts the same as childhood's End. Scramble up 5th class to the flat ledge about 1/3 the way up the cliff. Instead of entering the dihedral follow 2 parrelel cracks on the right to the top of a huge ledge then follow the thin splinger finger crack on the arete to the top.


Protection 

Small pieces consisting of mostly TCU's and some cams up to 1 inch. There is no bolted anchor, so walk across the top of the cliff to the right until the PCT trail, then hike down to the base of the cliff.



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By Willoughby
Aug 20, 2009

We did this last weekend. Not sure that I understand your route description entirely, but I'm sure there are variations. Anyhow, we took a very direct approach to get to the base of the Childhood's Beginning dihedral. The upper crack runs out of rock before the top, however. There's no more pro out on the arete, so my partner crossed over into the dihedral after manteling up onto the arete; I stepped across one or two body lengths below, and gained the dihedral just above the bush. Fun route.