Climbs better than it looks! Involves all kinds of movement going left of the cracks, right of the cracks, and sometimes up the cracks! In the course of all this you'll find a few nice finger and hand jams (tape the right hand).
The crux is getting past the fixed pin and bolt about 45' up, then another 20' takes you to a nice ledge.
From the ledge traverse right past two bolts to the base of the summit blade. Lieback the blade for a few moves and then hand traverse left to the anchors and a stance. Although not technically too dificult, it's a burly lieback!
The route takes great gear and is well protected, although it does meander a bit so take some long slings to reduce rope drag.
This route is the first route you will come to as you walk down the draw to the 'Creature' climbs, C.I.C., and Too Easy for Hard Men.
As with these other routes, walk past Teachers Pet and Crystal Ship, taking the trail up and left, and then down into draw. The trail leading down into the draw is now pretty deeply eroded, you can't miss it.
7 stoppers size 5 - 11
6 cams from #2 Metolius TCU to #1 Camalot
|By Harrison Teuber|
From: Black Hills, SD
Jul 29, 2014
very crumbly rock. will be good with more traffic