Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook

Select Route:
Central Rib, The T 
South Spur T 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 13,579'
Location: 40.2491, -105.6414 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,081
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Bill Duncan on Apr 3, 2011
Wed Thu Fri Sat Sun
43° | 36°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
51° | 37°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
53° | 37°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
56° | 39°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
62° | 43°
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The Chiefshead, and the NE face, as viewed from Pa...


Chiefshead is located at the head of Glacier Gorge, and stands between Pagoda Mountain to the east and McHenry's Peak to the northwest. The north ridge or central rib of Chiefshead extends northward to become the striking Spearhead formation (12,575). The northwest face and the northeast face contain most of the technical routes, but there are other moderate alpine and snow/ice/mixed routes to be found on the mountain.

Getting There 

Park at the Glacier Gorge junction TH or the Bear Lake TH, and follow the trail to Mills' Lake and deeper into Glacier Gorge past Black Lake. Once above timberline, make your way around to the east or west side of the Spearhead. There are good bivy sites here if you have a bivy permit.

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Chiefshead
The route ascends the obvious arete, highlighted by sun and shadow, that leads to a point just right of the summit.

South Spur 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Chiefshead
This route ascends the prominent spur or arete on the south side of Chief's Head Peak, almost opposite the Central Rib on the north side. It could have a more inspiring name than "South Spur," but nothing has come to mind. The line is fairly obvious from the southwest. I first noticed it a few years ago from the North Ridge of Isolation Peak.Hike the Wild Basin Trail to a junction at 4.8 miles, go right to Lion Lake #1 and onward to Snowbank Lake, about 7.5 miles from the trailhead. Con...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Chiefshead
Local Shops
A true mountain shop, located in the shadow of Boulder's Flatirons.
Gear that has the best chance of improving your outdoor experience.
Closeouts and cosmetic 2nds at below wholesale prices.
Jul 9 Access Fund is hiring in Boulder 0
Jun 11 New Women's Speed Record on the Nose   5
Jun 7 A Tribute to Jeff Lowe   4
May 15 MP Mobile App: Partnered with Black Diamond and now Free   4
May 12 New Feature: Improve This Page   3
May 1 New Yosemite Bigwall Printed Guide Book Now Available 0

[ Read All News ]
Upcoming Events
no events scheduled
Comments on Chiefshead Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -