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Chiefshead is located at the head of Glacier Gorge, and stands between Pagoda Mountain to the east and McHenry's Peak to the northwest. The north ridge or central rib of Chiefshead extends northward to become the striking Spearhead formation (12,575). The northwest face and the northeast face contain most of the technical routes, but there are other moderate alpine and snow/ice/mixed routes to be found on the mountain.
Park at the Glacier Gorge junction TH or the Bear Lake TH, and follow the trail to Mills' Lake and deeper into Glacier Gorge past Black Lake. Once above timberline, make your way around to the east or west side of the Spearhead. There are good bivy sites here if you have a bivy permit.
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Featured Route For Chiefshead
South Spur 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Chiefshead
This route ascends the prominent spur or arete on the south side of Chief's Head Peak, almost opposite the Central Rib on the north side. It could have a more inspiring name than "South Spur," but nothing has come to mind. The line is fairly obvious from the southwest. I first noticed it a few years ago from the North Ridge of Isolation Peak.Hike the Wild Basin Trail to a junction at 4.8 miles, go right to Lion Lake #1 and onward to Snowbank Lake, about 7.5 miles from the trailhead. Con...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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