Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Cowboy Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blood Drive S 
Chief of Scouts S 
Universal Donor S 

Chief of Scouts 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Hermann
Season: south facing
Page Views: 307
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Dec 2, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


This route features an OK start to a really fun couple of moves over a bulge at 3/4 height and a easier but still engaging topout. I busted an air Jordan slam dunk-style dyno off a big ledge to a massive letterbox slot in a horizontal crack, though ample footholds in the roof mean shorties have a way out too. Very enjoyable climbing and quite a memorable crux move (at least the way I did it).

A tall person (or one with an awesome ape index) would probably have a laughably easy time with this crux.

Historical reference- Buffalo Bill Cody was chief of scouts for the 3rd calvary in the late 1860s. So there ya go.


Towards the right end of the Cowboy Wall. Find two routes that start very close together and both tackle a large roof/bulge at 3/4 height. These routes are located just left of a large offset block. Chief of Scouts is the left route that begins up a shallow right-facing corner.


7 bolts, 2-bolt clip & lower sport anchor.

Comments on Chief of Scouts Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mees
From: Iowa
Dec 3, 2012

FA Mark Hermann
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Dec 3, 2012

Are you sure about that? I asked Mike Snyder, who told me Rick Aune did the FA, originally on gear nonetheless, and retroed it after other sport routes went in on the wall.
By Mees
From: Iowa
Dec 3, 2012

100% certain, talked to Rick for confirmation, not that it really matters but thought as long as you are adding info here, might as well be accurate. Mark really did a great job putting up routes in the early days of development at the BB. Not sure what he is up to these days, hope he is well and thank him for his excellent contribution bitd.
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Dec 26, 2012

Thanks for the info Mees. I like things to be accurate when I add them too, which is why I originally emailed Mike Snyder about the FA info since the guidebook lacks it. I do think it matters & thanks for contributing the correct info.

I very much appreciate the contributions of all the of the crew who established these routes and thank them for their efforts! I had a great time climbing in the canyon once things cooled off this past fall. It fills a nice niche for cold-weather sport climbing in a gorgeous setting.
By Mr. Southfork
Oct 9, 2015

FA Todd Cozzens, Scott Carson 1988. This route follows the arete above the massive block.
By Mees
From: Iowa
Oct 14, 2015

OK maybe Rick and I got it wrong but I thought there was another route to the right of chief of scouts that you are talking about Todd. Don't recall Chief of Scouts being an arete climb. Believe you are talking about the right route referred to in the description not the left
By Mike Snyder
Oct 28, 2015

Based on the Aune guide the arete above the block is called The Wild West Show. As I remember it the crux is moving to one of those hamburger-like churt pieces while wrestling the arete. This I believe is the route Todd and Scott put up.

Chief of Scouts starts just left of Cigar Store Indian and trends left initially for some tough face climbing, though the crux is going through the bulge at the end. FA Mark Herman I believe.
By Mees
From: Iowa
Oct 29, 2015

yeah that sounds correct Mike, just couldn't remember the name. The arete move to the churt I still remember. When did cigar store Indian go in?

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!