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Cowboy Wall
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Blood Drive 2nd Pitch S 
Chief of Scouts S 
Universal Donor S 

Chief of Scouts 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Hermann
Season: south facing
Page Views: 199
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Dec 2, 2012

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Description 

This route features an OK start to a really fun couple of moves over a bulge at 3/4 height and a easier but still engaging topout. I busted an air Jordan slam dunk-style dyno off a big ledge to a massive letterbox slot in a horizontal crack, though ample footholds in the roof mean shorties have a way out too. Very enjoyable climbing and quite a memorable crux move (at least the way I did it).

A tall person (or one with an awesome ape index) would probably have a laughably easy time with this crux.

Historical reference- Buffalo Bill Cody was chief of scouts for the 3rd calvary in the late 1860s. So there ya go.


Location 

Towards the right end of the Cowboy Wall. Find two routes that start very close together and both tackle a large roof/bulge at 3/4 height. These routes are located just left of a large offset block. Chief of Scouts is the left route that begins up a shallow right-facing corner.


Protection 

7 bolts, 2-bolt clip & lower sport anchor.



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By Mees
From: Iowa
Dec 3, 2012

FA Mark Hermann

By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Dec 3, 2012

Are you sure about that? I asked Mike Snyder, who told me Rick Aune did the FA, originally on gear nonetheless, and retroed it after other sport routes went in on the wall.

By Mees
From: Iowa
Dec 3, 2012

100% certain, talked to Rick for confirmation, not that it really matters but thought as long as you are adding info here, might as well be accurate. Mark really did a great job putting up routes in the early days of development at the BB. Not sure what he is up to these days, hope he is well and thank him for his excellent contribution bitd.

By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Dec 26, 2012

Thanks for the info Mees. I like things to be accurate when I add them too, which is why I originally emailed Mike Snyder about the FA info since the guidebook lacks it. I do think it matters & thanks for contributing the correct info.

I very much appreciate the contributions of all the of the crew who established these routes and thank them for their efforts! I had a great time climbing in the canyon once things cooled off this past fall. It fills a nice niche for cold-weather sport climbing in a gorgeous setting.