Chief of Scouts 5.11d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | Mark Hermann |
| Season: | south facing |
| Submitted By: | Nick Stayner on Dec 2, 2012 |
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Description This route features an OK start to a really fun couple of moves over a bulge at 3/4 height and a easier but still engaging topout. I busted an air Jordan slam dunk-style dyno off a big ledge to a massive letterbox slot in a horizontal crack, though ample footholds in the roof mean shorties have a way out too. Very enjoyable climbing and quite a memorable crux move (at least the way I did it).
A tall person (or one with an awesome ape index) would probably have a laughably easy time with this crux.
Historical reference- Buffalo Bill Cody was chief of scouts for the 3rd calvary in the late 1860s. So there ya go.
Location Towards the right end of the Cowboy Wall. Find two routes that start very close together and both tackle a large roof/bulge at 3/4 height. These routes are located just left of a large offset block. Chief of Scouts is the left route that begins up a shallow right-facing corner.
Protection 7 bolts, 2-bolt clip & lower sport anchor.
| Comments on Chief of Scouts |
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By Mees
Dec 3, 2012
| FA Mark Hermann |
By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Dec 3, 2012
| Are you sure about that? I asked Mike Snyder, who told me Rick Aune did the FA, originally on gear nonetheless, and retroed it after other sport routes went in on the wall. |
By Mees
Dec 3, 2012
| 100% certain, talked to Rick for confirmation, not that it really matters but thought as long as you are adding info here, might as well be accurate. Mark really did a great job putting up routes in the early days of development at the BB. Not sure what he is up to these days, hope he is well and thank him for his excellent contribution bitd. |
By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Dec 26, 2012
| Thanks for the info Mees. I like things to be accurate when I add them too, which is why I originally emailed Mike Snyder about the FA info since the guidebook lacks it. I do think it matters & thanks for contributing the correct info.
I very much appreciate the contributions of all the of the crew who established these routes and thank them for their efforts! I had a great time climbing in the canyon once things cooled off this past fall. It fills a nice niche for cold-weather sport climbing in a gorgeous setting. |
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