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Routes in Seems Like Old Times
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Chief Joseph S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Critter Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Seems Like Old Times S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 95 ft (29 m) |
| FA: | Rich McFadden |
| Page Views: | 867 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Sarah Meiser on Sep 7, 2014 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
The crux comes in the first three bolts in the form of steep climbing on smallish holds with tricky feet. The Huey guide calls this 10a but it felt harder than other Ten Sleep 10a's. Protection is good here.
Once past the steep introduction, cruise much easier and lower angle terrain past widely spaced bolts. This part is runout but easy and the few bolts are well placed at trickier spots. Near the top traverse left to the anchor atop Critter Crack.
Note that the Huey guide shows the anchor for this climb being much lower and not shared with Critter Crack. Perhaps the line has been rebolted recently.
Once past the steep introduction, cruise much easier and lower angle terrain past widely spaced bolts. This part is runout but easy and the few bolts are well placed at trickier spots. Near the top traverse left to the anchor atop Critter Crack.
Note that the Huey guide shows the anchor for this climb being much lower and not shared with Critter Crack. Perhaps the line has been rebolted recently.
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