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Chickies Rock
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1 Northwest Buttress 
2 The Cave 
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Chickies Rock 


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Lat, Long: 40.0516, -76.525 Map
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Administrators: Justin Johnsen, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Ross Purnell on Feb 14, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: main wall at Chickies

Description 

Chickies Rock is a traditional climbing crag on cliffs rising over the east bank of the Susquehanna River. It has single- and multi-pitch routes, ranging from 5.0 to 5.10+ or 5.11-, on adequate quality metamorphic rock. It's popular to climb on top rope on the Main Face, with slings and trad protection to build anchors; you'll find no bolts here!

The crag is in the eponymous Chickies Rock Park. The rock itself is Lower Cambrian Chickies Quartzite. Chickies Rock is the largest exposed anticline on the East Coast. According to USGS, the summit of the ridge is 587 feet (179 metres) above sea level. The state park info says the cliff is 200 feet tall--and that might be true by the overlook, but at the south end--on the face where the main crowd climbs--the cliff is about 150 feet. Maybe 75-100 feet up to Riverview Ledge, and then another 50 feet up the Block if you try for a second pitch; very few people do that.


Getting There 

Chickies is just off Highway 441 near Columbia, PA. Use this map as a reference:

www.co.lancaster.pa.us/parks/lib/parks/Chickies_rev.pdf

The parking area indicated by the "P" on chickies Rock Overlook Trail is NOT where you want to park. This is a longer hike and ends at the top of the overlook. the best place to park is to the north where the Susquehanna Heritage Trail meets 441. It's a pullout beside a grassy area with a few white municipal buildings. Follow the trail to the south along the river and old railway tracks to the far south end of the rock.


Rock Type 

Lower Cambrian Chickies Quartzite : "light-gray to white, hard, massive quartzite and quartz schist with thin interbedded dark slate at top."


Governance 

Lancaster County Department of Parks and Recreation


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chickies Rock:
The Exorcist   V5-6     Boulder, 12 feet   2 The Cave
Witches Brew   5.3 PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet   4 Main Wall
Main Street (right)   5.6 PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet   4 Main Wall
Main Street (left)   5.7 R     Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet   4 Main Wall
The Undercling   5.7     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet   4 Main Wall
That Roof Crack   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 210 feet   2 The Cave
Great Expectations   5.11a X     TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   1 Northwest Buttress
Browse More Classics in Chickies Rock

Featured Route For Chickies Rock
Snowflake tracks the right side of the red rope.

Snowflake 5.4 PG13  PA : Chickies Rock : 4 Main Wall
This is a fun climb that begginners could make it up. There are plenty of big holds that don't require fancy body positioning to use. Also some good hands free resting places to sort gear, take a breather or a picture....[more]   Browse More Classics in PA


Photos of Chickies Rock Slideshow Add Photo
 main wall at chickies

main wall at chickies

Chickies Main Wall topo from Chickies climbing guide available at <a href='http://mhartman.net/climbing/chickies.html' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >mhartman.net/climbing/chickies.html</a>

BETA PHOTO: Chickies Main Wall topo from Chickies climbing gui...

Tanya on the final headwall of Sunday Morning.

BETA PHOTO: Tanya on the final headwall of Sunday Morning.

Ryan following on Main St.

BETA PHOTO: Ryan following on Main St.

Decent perspective on the problem

Decent perspective on the problem