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 ADVANCED
The Headstone
Routes Sorted
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Alienist S 
Chickenhead T 
Clouds of Jupiter T 
Epitaph, The S 
Haus Flake S 
Head Games T,S 
Head Trip T 
Io S 
Lions and Chipmunks and Bears, Oh My S 
Noble Savage T 
Project (aka Who Haas Done It) S 
Rampart Rage, The T,S 
Razor Burn S 
Remote Control S 
Rock Nazi S 
Scratchy Face S 
Slab Variation S 
Topaz S 
V-Slaught, The S 

Chickenhead 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 1994 04 95, Tom Hanson & Scott Sills
Page Views: 6,880
Submitted By: Tom Hanson on Oct 9, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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BETA PHOTO: Chickenhead pitches.
Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This classic three pitch trad line represents the first excursion up the West face of The Headstone proper. Begin to the right of Topaz and climb to the top of a left-facing corner system and belay on a ledge. Step left to the face and beware a huge loose block (crux). Wander up the line of least resistance. The last pitch is short often climbing the wall right of the chimney.


Protection 

Standard rack. Fixed anchors at belays.



Photos of Chickenhead Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up Chickenhead (5.8).
BETA PHOTO: Looking up Chickenhead (5.8).
Looking down the second pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the second pitch.
Belay station anchor locations on Chickenhead, as seen when traversing across the talus field nearing the Headstone.
BETA PHOTO: Belay station anchor locations on Chickenhead, as ...
The big, unattached flake.
The big, unattached flake.
Looking down from the summit with Brenda on the comfy 2nd belay ledge and Sammy resting far below.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the summit with Brenda on the co...
Looking down the first pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the first pitch.
Comments on Chickenhead Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 8, 2014
By Kyle P.
From: Lander, WY
Nov 22, 2007

Excellent climbing. Hail stricken after the first pitch though. I would like to go back and finish it next season.

By Sean Wolf
From: Denver, CO
Apr 13, 2011

Is there a guidebook with this climb in it?

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Apr 13, 2011

You can find all of the routes in this area in the new Rampart Range Rocks guidebook available at REI, the local shops like Bent Gate/Wilderness Exchange/Neptune, & some local gyms, too.

By John Korfmacher
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 1, 2011

Fine climb. Second pitch looks kinda dirty and chossy from the bottom, but it's actually pretty funky--lots of wild, ass-hanging-out moves on big holds with solid pro. P3 is a little confusing at first, but stare at it a little while and you'll get it.

By Dave G
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 7, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Great route! P1 was a pretty straightforward, 5.7ish, corner climb. Good bolts at the comfortable first belay station. The first few moves onto P2 got my full attention! Tom got a large Friend stuck in a crack on the right as his first protection on P2. Neither of us could get it out even though I could get my fingers behind it. Lots of interesting, fun, and challenging climbing along P2. I don't recall one clearly 5.8 move, but the 5.7+/5.8- challenges came one after another. Another comfortable belay with good bolts at the top of P2. P3 is short. I must have made it harder than necessary as my P3 moves were as challenging as any on P2. All 3 pitches protected well. From the solid anchors on top, my 70m rope just got us down to the first belay station with not an inch of rope to spare. Nice shade all the way up. Beautiful area!

By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 11, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Excellent climb -- I agree with Dave G.
Pretty consistent climbing on all three pitches, but the mental crux for me was the start of the second pitch with the short traverse left, and the first 20 feet of climbing above that. Pitch two was fantastic with the vertical face climbing to the right of the chimney on amazing (Chickenhead) holds and feet placements. Use lots of slings on pitch two to reduce rope drag. The third pitch was short and had three bolts on the right face to clip for protection -- though you could probably protect the crack in the chimney just fine. Descended with three raps down the route. Anchors were all very solid. Again a great route!

By slim
Administrator
Aug 7, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route is really fun and a lot better than it looks from the bottom. The second pitch is really cool, as the climbing is steep, but the chimney makes it secure.

By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 2, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

P1 is an excellent beginner lead - gear placement options everywhere and easy climbing - all at the same time as being really fun.

P2 start is spicy like others mentioned - I almost decided to skip it because of the risk of the traverse right off the belay station. If you can step up on the shelf to the left of the belay ledge, you can reach up and place a microcam (I think I used a green C3).

GEAR - a Colorado SR seems fine, minus the #4. I did place two C3s because I had them, there are usually lots of options so you'll be fine without. Medium nuts are useful, I placed many. If you have new gear to play with, bring it along, you can probably find somewhere to put it!

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Oct 7, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

The third pitch is actually part of "Topaz". I did it as my third pitch, but it is not actually part of Chickenhead. I had to use the loose flake. It will be scary if it goes during a climb. It could make the route more difficult if it goes.

By Austin Cooner
Oct 14, 2013

The last pitch was completely bolted. Good climbing, kind of weird in spots though.

The view from the top is breathtaking, one of the best I've seen.

By Evan J
Jun 8, 2014

Retrieved stuck BD cam - if it is yours and you would like it back, let me know. It is not in great shape.