Chickenhead 

Excellent climbing. Hail stricken after the first pitch though. I would like to go back and finish it next season.

Is there a guidebook with this climb in it?

You can find all of the routes in this area in the new Rampart Range Rocks guidebook available at REI, the local shops like Bent Gate/Wilderness Exchange/Neptune, & some local gyms, too.

Fine climb. Second pitch looks kinda dirty and chossy from the bottom, but it's actually pretty funky--lots of wild, ass-hanging-out moves on big holds with solid pro. P3 is a little confusing at first, but stare at it a little while and you'll get it.

Great route! P1 was a pretty straightforward, 5.7ish, corner climb. Good bolts at the comfortable first belay station. The first few moves onto P2 got my full attention! Tom got a large Friend stuck in a crack on the right as his first protection on P2. Neither of us could get it out even though I could get my fingers behind it. Lots of interesting, fun, and challenging climbing along P2. I don't recall one clearly 5.8 move, but the 5.7+/5.8- challenges came one after another. Another comfortable belay with good bolts at the top of P2. P3 is short. I must have made it harder than necessary as my P3 moves were as challenging as any on P2. All 3 pitches protected well. From the solid anchors on top, my 70m rope just got us down to the first belay station with not an inch of rope to spare. Nice shade all the way up. Beautiful area!

Excellent climb -- I agree with Dave G.
Pretty consistent climbing on all three pitches, but the mental crux for me was the start of the second pitch with the short traverse left, and the first 20 feet of climbing above that. Pitch two was fantastic with the vertical face climbing to the right of the chimney on amazing (Chickenhead) holds and feet placements. Use lots of slings on pitch two to reduce rope drag. The third pitch was short and had three bolts on the right face to clip for protection -- though you could probably protect the crack in the chimney just fine. Descended with three raps down the route. Anchors were all very solid. Again a great route!

This route is really fun and a lot better than it looks from the bottom. The second pitch is really cool, as the climbing is steep, but the chimney makes it secure.