Chickenhead Holiday 5.6
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.6 [details] |
| FA: | Ted Wilson, Robert Stout May 1961 |
| Submitted By: | Nathan Fisher on Sep 30, 2004 |
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BETA PHOTO: Start of Chickenhead Holiday
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Description At the west end of The Waterfront, just at the chockstone at the base of the cliffs, is this gully/crack, that angles right. The crux is getting off the ground. Good protection, and easy climbing makes for a great trad lead for beginners. At the 1 bolt anchor, I aimed for the chains to the west, going up and traversing over on the undercling crack, slinging chickenheads. Not a bad line to give you an easy exit.
Protection 1 OLD bolt for the anchor, so bring some backup, and the crack protects well with a standard rack.
P girl on holiday...a Chickenhead Holiday!
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| Comments on Chickenhead Holiday |
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By Lee Gitlin
Sep 30, 2004
rating: 5.6
| The first 8 feet are the most interesting sequence. This deep crack gobbles up as much big gear as you care to place. Hexes and #2-4 cams work well. I was a little leary of the old, single rap bolt at the belay station. Break out the hemp rope and say your prayers, bailing off of that thing! |
By Anonymous Coward
May 28, 2005
| I have a feeling that this OLD bolt might soon get replaced. Now ....not having ever climbed this route, if this is in fact the belay / rappel and the route does not continue up and or have gear placements to incorporate into the belay, what would be the consensus on replacing the OLD bolt and then PLACING a second belay bolt.???? How would people feel about that??? |
By Nathan Fisher
May 29, 2005
| This bolt in and of itself is in need of replacement. Now, with that said, 20-30 feet left are the anchors for the slabbier routes. These can be used for any descent, with a mild traverse, and therefore I don't see a need for "anchors" to be added, just a one-bolt replacement. |
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
May 29, 2005
rating: 5.6
| Please do not replace this bolt. It really isn't necessary to begin with. There is pro available, and if you climb up to the ledges, there are several places where you can build a natural anchor. The crack on the second pitch would be great if it were steep. At the end of the second pitch, you can traverse left and into Plumbline Gully. I think there are other options above, but I've never done them. |
By BECK
Sep 1, 2006
| 2 Bolts and Chains have been added as of 8/31/2006 |
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Sep 1, 2006
rating: 5.6
| Ridiculous! |
By STH
Aug 1, 2009
| I'm sure we're all very aware of who to thank, errr, tell to fuck off. |
By bsmoot
Oct 26, 2009
| As a beginner, I climbed this route back in 1976. There weren't ANY bolts on the entire climb. Sad to see an unnecessary bolt station added to a very historic route.
This was the first officially recorded route in Little Cottonwood.
F.A. Ted Wilson and Robert Stout May 1961 |
By grk10vq
Administrator
Oct 26, 2009
| if any route should keep its original state i'd say it be this one.
can i get an amen. |
By dbrown
Oct 28, 2009
| I climbed this route around 1982 and there was a bolt with a ring anchor around it. It looked old even back then.
There is another route or two to the right of On The Waterfront that has the same anchors.(At least it did a year ago) They aren't in any of the old guides and one climbed a squeeze chimney. |
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