Chickenhead Better Than No Head
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British R
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Bob Hayes, Dave Veldhaus 1992 |
Page Views: | 766 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Tom Caldwell on Oct 19, 2011 |
Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Access Issue: Partial closure due to historical and archaeological sites.
Details
The USFS has closed a number of routes because they are located in close proximity to historical and archaeological sites. The following routes are closed indefinitely: Cindy Lou's Left Tube Seuss Seuss Sudio Fox in Locks.
Be aware, there may be more.
Be aware, there may be more.
Description
This one is exciting and for all the wrong reasons. Probably doesn't see many ascents and it shows. This route is very serious having lots of fragile rock to negotiate, even during long runouts. It is advisable to have your belayer hide under the overhang at the start and wear a helmet.
Start in a wide broken crack. Move up the crack into another broken crack, placing gear when the rock is good. Move hard right to the base of a water groove looking feature. Move up the groove getting gear in horizontals along the way trending towards the prominent chickenhead. Sling the chicken head with a 4' sling and get on top of it. Above this is the crux and the R section. Make delicate moves up the dirty, slick, mossy face to get to the plates way above. Once at the plates, find some gear and either move up or hard right to the anchors on Griptospuridiam.
On our ascent, we did not see a slung tree, but traversed right to the bolts on Gripto. Note that if you do the traverse, there are many loose plates up high, but are some good chickenheads to sling down low. Slinging the chickenheads down low will prevent the rope from knocking one of the plates loose.
Start in a wide broken crack. Move up the crack into another broken crack, placing gear when the rock is good. Move hard right to the base of a water groove looking feature. Move up the groove getting gear in horizontals along the way trending towards the prominent chickenhead. Sling the chicken head with a 4' sling and get on top of it. Above this is the crux and the R section. Make delicate moves up the dirty, slick, mossy face to get to the plates way above. Once at the plates, find some gear and either move up or hard right to the anchors on Griptospuridiam.
On our ascent, we did not see a slung tree, but traversed right to the bolts on Gripto. Note that if you do the traverse, there are many loose plates up high, but are some good chickenheads to sling down low. Slinging the chickenheads down low will prevent the rope from knocking one of the plates loose.
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