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Dip Wall
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Chickenhead Better Than No Head T 
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Chickenhead Better Than No Head 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob Hayes, Dave Veldhaus 1992
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 116
Submitted By: TomCaldwell on Oct 19, 2011

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Partial closure due to historical and archaeological sites. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This one is exciting and for all the wrong reasons. Probably doesn't see many ascents and it shows. This route is very serious having lots of fragile rock to negotiate, even during long runouts. It is advisable to have your belayer hide under the overhang at the start and wear a helmet.

Start in a wide broken crack. Move up the crack into another broken crack, placing gear when the rock is good. Move hard right to the base of a water groove looking feature. Move up the groove getting gear in horizontals along the way trending towards the prominent chickenhead. Sling the chicken head with a 4' sling and get on top of it. Above this is the crux and the R section. Make delicate moves up the dirty, slick, mossy face to get to the plates way above. Once at the plates, find some gear and either move up or hard right to the anchors on Griptospuridiam.

On our ascent, we did not see a slung tree, but traversed right to the bolts on Gripto. Note that if you do the traverse, there are many loose plates up high, but are some good chickenheads to sling down low. Slinging the chickenheads down low will prevent the rope from knocking one of the plates loose.


Location 

This route is on the far left side of the wall. From the approach trail, walk left past the rock house, look for the overhanging finger crack of Griptospuridiam and move to the left side of that buttress. There is an obvious large chickenhead above a groove about midway up the face.


Protection 

.3-3 Camalot size, long slings, and at least one 4' sling. Use bolts on Griptospuridiam or look for slings on tree above.



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