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 ADVANCED
Chicken Little Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Casada Noodle Soup S 
Chicken Little S 
Chicken Scratch S 
Chicken Thief S 
Chicken, The S 
Cruisin for Chicks S 
Egg, The S 
Left Wing S 
Right Wing S 
Rooster Tail S 
Technical Fowl S 

Chicken Scratch 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Rick Bradshaw et. al.
Page Views: 370
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Mar 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Jason Hundhausen tackles the crux on "Chicken...

Description 

Easy blocky climbing leads to the high first bolt. The climbing continues to be steep but very positive before starting up the arete where a crux move is encountered between bolts 4 and 5. After that more nice arete moves await to the finish. Some complain the blocky, suspect rock at the bottom detracts but I don't think so.

Location 

This is the first bolted line right of The Egg. It has a high first bolt.

Protection 

8 bolts to springed cold shuts.


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By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 6, 2008

I am in agreement that the blocky, trashy looking rock at the bottom of the route detracts from the quality of the route. Felt OK after clipping the first bolt though I knocked off a small block prior to getting there. I was treading lightly so it was of no consequence but the thought was in the back of my mind (being someone who has has more than one fall resulting from broken rock). The top was good, with fun movement up the arete. Just be aware, especially in the springtime!

An optional cam can be placed down low if you are concerned about the high first bolt (my partner had one and used it). Certainly not necessary if you are comfortable at the grade, the climbing is not difficult getting to the initial bolt (just appears loose!).