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This route is below Schoolroom rappel. It climbs the face right at the obvious chicken-head that rests at the lip of a small roof. Scramble up to the base of the roof, face climb, and use an undercling to get within reach of the chickenhead, and then grab it and mantel it. FUN!! Lieback the crack until you can jam it and then smear the finish.
2 chains (Schollroom Rap) make for an easy top-rope after climbing one of the other climbs, or you can lead it. Bring a 2" cam for the undercling, a sling and a lasso arm for the chicken head, and some medium to small nuts for the initial crack. Higher up in the crack, one would need small cams or creativity with nuts. 1 large cma for the top could be useful.
BETA PHOTO: Chicken Rodeo climbs the face to the big chickenhe...
|By Tristan Higbee|
Nov 17, 2008
Did this route 3 or 4 years ago. It was my hardest trad lead at the time. I was scared out of my mind. I thought it was definitely R rated, but I was probably just a pansy. I remember getting 3 or 4 pieces in the flaring flake thing (made me mentally happy) before committing to the moves above. The chickenhead part is pretty fun, though. Good times.
From: Small Lake, UT
Apr 16, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13
I'm not sure where a 2" cam would fit in the cling. Seems like .3, .4 or .5 placements are there and solid.
The chickenhead mantel is full value LCC goodness. Blowing it would suck. A lot.
Another mantel lurks above and might have you questioning why you're leading this one...
|By Landon McBrayer|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 1, 2010
This climb sucks. Crappy rock and mediocre gear...all for one good move. Don't waste your time.