This is a route of high quality with all sorts of jams from finger locks to fists and knob tie-offs. I would point anyone who is a crack lover to this climb. It is also considered the warm-up climb for the area, although, it really is a little steep and stiff for this consideration. Many climbers feel Chicken Pie is deserving of a .10a grade. This is understandable since Chicken Pie is one of the more demanding 5.9 finger to hand cracks. The overall quality of this climb is comparable to the best cracks you will find down canyon.
Also, if you have repeatedly climbed pitch one of Chicken Pie, I would recommend you give the knobby pitch two top out a try. From the chains, pitch two heads right and up large knobs. The pro is good on the entire route, and can easily be done in one pitch if mindful of rope drag.
This climb is about 100ft. right of New Diversions. Look for a right facing ramp with a bush in the middle of it. The ramp turns into an amazing corner (.9). Most parties rappel from the chains at the top of pitch one. If completing the climb (recommended) walk off to the right.
Pitch one: Single set of friends and stoppers to 3.5" Bring extra 1.25 - 1.75 friends for the corner. Slings. Bolted chains at the anchor.
Pitch two: Slings for knob tie-offs. Green alien for the moves exiting the slab on the top. Natural anchor.
|By Jesse Arp|
From: Alameda, CA
Jul 19, 2011
SPOILER ALERT (BETA BELOW)
General: Fun route, but can be strenuous to place pro around 1/2 or 3/4 of the way to the small roof. I took a lot under the roof.
Detail: Good crimp rails on left side of dihedral for first 15 feet, then two layback moves to a good left foot (shake, place pro), then 20-30 feet of pumpy laybacks to a decent crimp on left, then a good pinch used to pull roof. After roof it is 5.7 face (knobs) climbing to bolted anchors. Can toprope with a 60m.
Racking up: it takes mostly .75 and below gear under roof, rack up on left sided gear loops as your right side will be butted up against wall and makes it difficult to reach pro.
|By Greg Barnes|
Feb 12, 2012
The friction is really good on Chicken Pie, and I always thought it was a "soft" 5.9, even considered rating it 5.8 in the guide. I've never heard of anyone considering it 5.10a (until seeing this description). Certainly the fist/flake start of New Diversions/New Deviations is harder and it's rated 5.8 (which is a sandbag in my opinion).
Just pointing out a different viewpoint from the description...
From: Boone, NC/ S.F.
Jan 23, 2013
A "soft" but great fun route. Supertopo book calls for two 4" pieces, I didnt place anything above a #2 BD, but I ran out the easy 5.6 ending (stayed out on the face/edge of crack, not inside).
|By Patrick Mulligan|
Jul 23, 2013
I thought this route was very pumpy. While no move was particularly difficult and it was very very hot the day I climbed this, I was way more pumped than I expected on this climb.