Chicken of the Sea 5.12a
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Tony on Chicken of the Sea.
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Description A worthy route! Sustained, steep, and technical through its entirety with unique and diverse movement required. You climb through crazy formations and peer into caves on the way up. The top out is exciting!
Location After passing the first cairn, continue about 75 meters past two more cairns (this is the No Problem, Mon area). Your not there yet, keep going another 125 meters past these cairns to yet another cairn. Toward the edge and slightly to the left you will see a battered bush near the edge. The anchor is a little difficult to see but it is straight out from this large bush on the right side of a triangular block. The anchors are shared with another route, Spine-less.
Protection TITANIUM bolts, 2 at the lower anchors, 10 on the route, then 2 bolts at the top.
Tony on Chicken of the Sea.
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Hangdogging Chicken of the Sea.
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| Comments on Chicken of the Sea |
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By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 13, 2009
| Because this was listed as "possibly the best route on the island" by John Byrnes, I just HAD to try it. Unfortunately, I was forced to top-rope rather than lead this beauty since no other climbers in my party could ascend the grade. When you can't get up something at the point, you don't just go back to the ground. So, top roping it was. Never the less, a worthy route it is!
Also unfortunate with me and this route was that we somehow ended up with the extra short static line from the Bluff View House... Hmmmm, I had to begin the route about 3 bolts above the bottom anchors. So, if you stay at the Bluff view house, beware of the route that looks a little shorter than the rest, it IS! |
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