If I didn't have a couple of nubbins pop on me while climbing this route I might give it 4 stars. It's a fun route with cool exposure and consistently fun climbing. It starts with a rather steep boulder problem (a stick clip makes it seem much less difficult) and then goes straight up a slightly slabby face with lots of nubbins.
This is the farthest right route on the right wall in the Cocaine Gully. Be careful not to knock rocks and pebbles down into the hole at the belay area; people crawling up through the tunnel don't like being rained on.
9 bolts and a bolted anchor. A stick clip is handy for protecting the bouldery bottom section before gaining the main face.
|By Joel Sprenger|
From: Terrebonne, OR
Nov 28, 2007
Good climb. Hard reachy move at the start leads to a fun slab and an even better upper section leading to the anchors.
May 12, 2008
Very fun climb. I didn't encounter a single suspect nubbin. Everything felt very solid. The initial moves to the first bolt are challenging with a seriously bad fall potential but the clipping holds are good.
|By David Wade|
Dec 1, 2008
First bolt isn't all that hard, although I agree the fall would be v. ugly. The second bolt, though...it sure seemed desperate to me! Watts says left hand in the crack, but I was on the face. One bomber hold at the bolt, and you're golden.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Sep 15, 2010
The starting moves past the first bolt felt considerably harder than 10b.... at least to me.
Great nubbin fondling though!
|By another Chad|
Aug 8, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I'm usually the guy quietly snickering about the use of sticks clips. Getting on Chicken McNuggets was the first and so far only time that I've used a stick (and some tape) to clip a first bolt. A fall from the beginning of Barbecue The Pope seems tame in comparison.