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Chicken Little Area Rock Climbing
Routes in Chicken Little Area
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C -4 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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C1 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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C1.5 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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C2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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C3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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C4 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Casada Noodle Soup S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Chicken Little S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chicken Scratch S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chicken Thief S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chicken, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cruisin for Chicks S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Egg, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Left Wing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Right Wing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rooster Tail S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Technical Fowl S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| GPS: |
35.8191, -106.16317 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Shared By: | Anthony Stout on May 17, 2006 · Updates |
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Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
The trail heads straight to this area at the left end of the crag. Several nice sport routes exist in this area ranging form 5.9 to 5.11d. There are also two traditional routes, a 5.7 and a .10a. The rock here is generally solid with exciting crimping and side pulling.
Getting There
See overview ![]()
Cockscomb crag area overview. Courtesy of Rick Bradshaw, author of online guide: losalamos.com/diablo/defaul…. . The trail heading toward the crag ends at this wall. Ends right around three good climbs: The Egg, The Chicken, and Technical Fowl.
Routes
Starting left and working right:
Left Wing (5.11a)
Little Chicken (5.7), Trad
Chicken Little (5.11d)
Cruisin for Chicks (5.10c)
Rooster Tail (5.10c)
Casada Noodle Soup (5.10b)
Technical Fowl (5.10d or 5.10b/c)
The Chicken (5.10a)
The Egg (5.9)
Chicken Scratch (5.10a)
Chicken Thief (5.11a)
Left Wing (5.11a)
Little Chicken (5.7), Trad
Chicken Little (5.11d)
Cruisin for Chicks (5.10c)
Rooster Tail (5.10c)
Casada Noodle Soup (5.10b)
Technical Fowl (5.10d or 5.10b/c)
The Chicken (5.10a)
The Egg (5.9)
Chicken Scratch (5.10a)
Chicken Thief (5.11a)
Classic Climbing Routes at Chicken Little Area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Guidebooks (6)
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