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Belay from a sloping ledge. Climb past two bolts on slippery features and a shallow, small cam placement to a ledge. Continue up a right facing dihedral to a rap station.
Standard rack plus two (2) bolt protection. Two bolt anchor. Rap bolts.
|Comments on Chicken Heart
|By Robert Buswold|
From: Longmont, CO
Jul 29, 2010
I am so glad I'm out of SD. Mission Gorge is horrible water-polished granite. Absolutely terrible climbing there. El Cajon mountain is probably the best sport climbing in that area, but a hell of an approach. With all that said, this route isn't too crappy, yet WAY short!
|By Kyle Wills|
From: San Diego CA
Nov 18, 2010
Hey! Dont hate. And I agree this route is somewhat satisfying.
|By Josh Cameron|
Oct 20, 2011
Fun climb that probably doesn't get the respect it deserves.
I could never get a cam to fit properly in the "shallow, cam placement." Instead, I find a #3 Metolius nut to work quite well. Be careful above that placement though. Several years back I was leading this and couldn't pull through the mantel and repeatedly kept falling on my nut without resetting it. Finally, on about the fourth attempt, the nut popped and I missed the ground by about 12 inches. After the fall, my belayer didn't even need to lower me. I just stretched my legs out and was standing on the ground. Needless to say, I scared the crap out of my poor belayer. Learned some important lessons that day and glad to say I am all the wiser now.
From: Poway, CA
Nov 5, 2013
A .2 bd x4 cam works well in the shallow crack above the second bold.