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Unsorted Routes:

Chicken Heart 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Galen Kirkwood, Bob Van Belle
Page Views: 927
Submitted By: Marc Kajut on Jan 29, 2006
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Chicken Heart (5.10a)

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Description 

Belay from a sloping ledge. Climb past two bolts on slippery features and a shallow, small cam placement to a ledge. Continue up a right facing dihedral to a rap station.


Protection 

Standard rack plus two (2) bolt protection. Two bolt anchor. Rap bolts.



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By Robert Buswold
From: Longmont, CO
Jul 29, 2010

I am so glad I'm out of SD. Mission Gorge is horrible water-polished granite. Absolutely terrible climbing there. El Cajon mountain is probably the best sport climbing in that area, but a hell of an approach. With all that said, this route isn't too crappy, yet WAY short!

By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
Nov 18, 2010

Hey! Dont hate. And I agree this route is somewhat satisfying.

By Josh Cameron
Oct 20, 2011

Fun climb that probably doesn't get the respect it deserves.

I could never get a cam to fit properly in the "shallow, cam placement." Instead, I find a #3 Metolius nut to work quite well. Be careful above that placement though. Several years back I was leading this and couldn't pull through the mantel and repeatedly kept falling on my nut without resetting it. Finally, on about the fourth attempt, the nut popped and I missed the ground by about 12 inches. After the fall, my belayer didn't even need to lower me. I just stretched my legs out and was standing on the ground. Needless to say, I scared the crap out of my poor belayer. Learned some important lessons that day and glad to say I am all the wiser now.

By Louis92064
From: Poway, CA
Nov 5, 2013

A .2 bd x4 cam works well in the shallow crack above the second bold.