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Elevation: 9,247 ft
GPS: 39.25855, -105.10569
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 53,940 total · 326/month
Shared By: Kevin Fox on Aug 15, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

As per Tod's guidebook, this sits in the lower west side. From the trailhead, follow it up to the bridge and fence. Bang a right through the fence, and follow it up through the two switchbacks over the pass. Follow the signage to the Chicken Head Ranch. There is climbing all the way around this crag. You can chase sun or shade. I love the climbing here - the routes are amazing. I would love to know the person that put them up.

Getting There Suggest change

15 to 20 minute hike.

Per Savanah T:

Approach 1: take the Fire Tower Trail (out of Devil's Head Campground), then it is a 15 to 20 minute hike (not sure this is accurate).

A pproach 2: park at MM10 (GPS coordinates: 39.261847, -105.114126), then it is a 30 - 45 minute hike, not accounting for bushwhacking after the winter months.

24 Total Climbs

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Location: Chicken Head Ranch Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Chicken Head Ranch

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 32
Thunder Chicken
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 31
Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicken Arete
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 66
Bart's Route
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 84
Beaks and Feet
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 34
Mini-Splitter
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 47
Extra Crispy
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 39
Finger Lickin' Good
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 23
Mini-Slab
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 142
Wishbone Dihedral
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 14
Wank Variation
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 14
The Crystal Key
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 23
Yellow Dot
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 12
Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Thunder Chicken
 32
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicke…
 31
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Bart's Route
 66
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Beaks and Feet
 84
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Mini-Splitter
 34
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Extra Crispy
 47
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Finger Lickin' Good
 39
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 2 pitches
Mini-Slab
 23
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Wishbone Dihedral
 142
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Wank Variation
 14
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Crystal Key
 14
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Yellow Dot
 23
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Those Who Crank & Those Who…
 12
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Chicken Head Ranch »

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