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This is yet another good and challenging 5.10 that sees zero traffic. Look above Sherrie's Crack for a right facing corner to a roof with a knobby wall above. Entering the corner is tough and is followed by a crux finger tip move to get up through the bottom of the corner. The rooflet is an excellent hand crack and the knobby wall above is challenging to protect but yields pro if you climb it just slightly on the left side. Not an R-rated climb but somewhat heady for the leader.
This climb linked with Sherrie's Crack will leave you feeling like a champ for a day.
Starts just left and up from the bolted rappel at the top of Sherrie's Crack. You can walk/scramble off to the left, or rappel from slings around a tree at the top of the climb(recommended). Do this with one 60m rope by rapping twice - Once to the top of Sherrie's Crack and another rappel to the ground.
If linking with Sherrie's, bring your rack for Sherrie's Crack and add a second set of gear to 2.5". Also bring slings for the knob tie offs above the roof. Alien Offsets may help yield pro above the roof in one or two spots. If climbing as a seperate pitch, bring a single set. There are normally slings around the tree at the top of the climb with rappel rings on them. But its best to bring an extra shoulder sling just in case you need to leave one.
|Comments on Chicken Fever
From: San Jose
Feb 3, 2010
Marc, thanks for description of this "obscure" route . Climbed Sherry crack many times and never looked at this side, never seen anybody there on Chicken. Have you climbed above to Pat and Jack Pinnacle via "Stinger" and "Stand and Quiver"?
Feb 3, 2010
No I have not, and I don't know anyone who has either. I've looked around over there and they appear to be OK. Spring would be the best time to do it, with Wildcat Falls pumping.
I like to climb Walt Shipley routes, but sometimes I don't think he really knew how hard he's was pulling. If you do it, post it for sure. I would definitely like to know what you thought. There's so much out there that's excellent but rarely gets done.
|By Mark P Thomas|
Mar 12, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
The start on this one is a little tricky. Higher up there is some fun mixed techniques of jamming, stemming & flared chimneying. The route looks like it takes good pro until you are past the roof. If you don't want to be in semi-runout knob territory, it looks like it is a small step right to merge with the upper crack of P2 of Sherrie's Crack, which takes some small gear.