Chicken Fever  5.10b

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  unknown, by 1987 Submitted By:  Osprey on Feb 2, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is yet another good and challenging 5.10 that sees zero traffic. Look above Sherrie's Crack for a right facing corner to a roof with a knobby wall above. Entering the corner is tough and is followed by a crux finger tip move to get up through the bottom of the corner. The rooflet is an excellent hand crack and the knobby wall above is challenging to protect but yields pro if you climb it just slightly on the left side. Not an R-rated climb but somewhat heady for the leader.

This climb linked with Sherrie's Crack will leave you feeling like a champ for a day.

Location 

Starts just left and up from the bolted rappel at the top of Sherrie's Crack. You can walk/scramble off to the left, or rappel from slings around a tree at the top of the climb(recommended). Do this with one 60m rope by rapping twice - Once to the top of Sherrie's Crack and another rappel to the ground.

Protection 

If linking with Sherrie's, bring your rack for Sherrie's Crack and add a second set of gear to 2.5". Also bring slings for the knob tie offs above the roof. Alien Offsets may help yield pro above the roof in one or two spots. If climbing as a seperate pitch, bring a single set. There are normally slings around the tree at the top of the climb with rappel rings on them. But its best to bring an extra shoulder sling just in case you need to leave one.