Chicken Eruptus 

Correction!! The route start's alot closer than 25ft right of Ragged edges. Try 5-10ft right.

This may be the thinnest 10b I've ever climbed. Worlds harder than anything else at the grade here.

Amen Jeremy! And I didn't even lead it, just followed on TR. But if you take a look at who put it up, well, can you say "old school".

placed old gold #2 camalot before moving right to 1st bolt. seemed solid?

fun line, more than 3 stars, imho.

I didn't think this was under rated. 10b. Big moves between great crimps. The gear is there, too, but often you are forced to do moves above your pro. Maybe scary, but I don't think it deserves an R rating. The Falcon guide gives it a PG rating.

I think that many of the routes at Red Rocks are soft for the grade. This felt right on for 10b. Definitely exciting pulling some of those moves above gear and bolts, but definitely not harder than 10b.

A refreshing dose of reality after climbing in the vicinity of the Gallery!

This route has thoughtful moves that require good foot work, the gear placements, while adequate, do require some creativeness. A classic single pitch route.

One of the best single pitch climbs I have ever done..(and i've done alot.) Never really felt runout, except for the topout but thats 5.5

The grade is right on at 10b. If low tens are you lead limit, I wouldnt reccomend this climb. The gear is all there but this is a climb in which you need to know what the hell your doing. Alot of little creative placments make this thing awsome!!!

I found this route to be quite nice, but felt it was definitely easier and less runout than Sheep Trail, fyi.

finally got around to this today- really fun route with solid gear where it counts- there's one or two tricky placements, but nothing a solid .10 leader should be concerned with. do this and then Sheep Trail for a full value day out at the crag.

also, a 70m rope makes this pretty casual as you can make the tree at the top of Ragged Edges for the anchor rather than the gulley just below.

I would remove the R rating and even the PG13 for the confident 5.10 leader. The crux areas are protected well and the gear is all available when you need it. Don't let the rating scare you off, this is a great long pitch of climbing.

I personally don't see a 5.10 for that route, 5.9 would be ok for me too. But I like that style of climbing. Where is the Runout to give that Route the R ?
But very nice and smooth...
good protection possible.

On the right side of chicken is a route "Aikido" or similar called, 5.11d or so, here the R is missing in the guide, although from 1st to second bolt a deep grounder is possible and the crux move is to reach the second bolt!
Scary and death-fall possible!!!!!

Concerning the "R". If you read the description the "R" rating is explained.
I don't personally think it deserves an "R", however the guidebook I had at the time gave it one (well an "S" same same). As I remember there are a couple of spots that are, maybe, a tad runout...so in an effort to give people as much info as possible, I gave it an "R" and then explained it. I think with all of that (and now this) the Description and ratings should remain as is.

Cheers,

josh

Very bold lead. I can see giving this an R rating. There is no pro from the second bolt up to the rest ledge, which is between 12-15 feet. Personally I don't like taking 30 foot lead falls... The feet are very positive, though, and the moves make sense. Just very bold. Seemed like a sport climb with difficult trad pro.

This climb really doesn't have any harder moves than .10b, although there is a mono finger hold between the first and second bolt. I haven't had an occasion to use a mono hold as my primary hold on any climb, so that was "interesting". Especially when you start to feel the mono finger start to pump out. The boldness of the route and sustained factor definitely makes it seem harder than .10b. I'm really glad I didn't fall. Although I did take at the second bolt to rest before trying the 12-15 feet of unprotectable face to the mantle and rest ledge. My partner who followed said the route was outstanding, but I had a hard time enjoying it due to the boldness of the lead.

I took a double rack to 2". I can't see leading 200 feet with a single rack, as per the Handren guide book. Don't forget, you need to build a gear anchor at the top. I only had 4 cams and nuts to choose from. Ended up using a #00 master cam as part of the gear anchor.

@Nelson- I use a single rack on the route, you don't need any gear for the anchor (a 60m will reach the tree barely, but a 70m will comfortable). If you're onsighting, doubling up to 2" isn't a bad idea, but in reality, there's just not that much gear to be had on the pitch. What gear you get is quite good, and its all where it need to be.

If you dont want to do the upper portion of the route, you can traverse off right after the face climbing above the bolt- take a couple of big pieces and you can set a TR anchor for Akido Gun Boy (which is awesome).

I toprope soloed this route 3 times yesterday and think it's a 1.5 star route. The first 30 feet are 5.6 or easier and the last 30+ feet are 5.6 or easier. There are only a few 5.10 moves and there are big crimps to rest on between the crux moves. 5.10b is about right for the crux moves (maybe easier if you're tall) but it's not sustained at all.