Chicken Delight/Chicken Tonight  5.7+ PG13

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Type:  Trad, TR Consensus:  5.8- [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Doug Hemken on May 12, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Starting the crux of "Chicken Tonight"

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Description 

"Chicken Delight" (5.7) and "Chicken Tonight" (5.8) are minor variations of the same general line. At the bottom, you have the choice of an awkward, reachy move left of the rib, or a layback/jam crack to the right (or you could walk around to the left and start on the thin, bouldery face, or start as for "Beginner's Delight"). See the photo on the Pseudo Hawk's Nest page.

The middle section does not have much gear, but is very easy climbing.

At the top, a blade of rock juts out. Going right of the blade, "Chicken Delight," is a little awkward. Going left up the crack in the bulge, "Chicken Tonight," is strenuous for a couple of moves (particularly if you stop to place gear in the middle), but the jams are very good. Both options protect very well in the crux.

Location 

Start either to the left or right of the sharp rib, left of ABM.

Protection 

Nuts and finger-sized cams

Photos of Chicken Delight/Chicken Tonight Slideshow

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Burt starts up "Chicken Tonight"

At the crux