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Chicken Dance 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dan Hare, 2002
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,521
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Mar 7, 2002
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Working Chicken Dance (also known as Hare).
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Early in 2002 or late in 2001 Dan Hare added a fine new line immediately to the right of Mrs. Hen Places a Peck. This route starts out in the seam and either slips left to the large hole or picks off a move or two on the right. Chase the slippery seam/crack to a good rest at 20 feet. In principle, a very thin (!) sequence follows with a good jug just out of reach. In February, Pat Burwick flashed the route using these tiny holds; however, there is a good hand to be found to the right and almost in the chimney and this hold could knock off some of the thin crimps. A large wing span will gain the jug from this edge. While this is a good route on solid stone, it will probably be done most often using a stem into the adjacent chimney for the first half of the route. Nontheless, it's clear that Dan's intent was to run the crack.


Protection 

Ten draws and a rope. Double bolt anchors exist at the top of Mrs. Hen and ten feet higher where a second double bolt anchor has been placed.



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By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Dec 21, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

3-16-08, Mark Rolofson told me Dan Hare called this route Chicken Dance. And the new Table Guide by Ben and Josh reminds me that Mo Hershoff did the FA with Dan.

By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 28, 2008

I thought Hen was more pure, due to the fact that there's no stem possible. Plus, the crux is more sustained.

Nevertheless, I enjoyed the thin move after the jug rest and topped out the same.

By Bob Rotert
Feb 5, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Seems like to make the "best" of the climbing at Table Mtn some times you have to climb a little contrived and ignore the easier way. I thought this was a really cool route. I like the variety this has with some jamming and the pumpy nature of the climb. The "sporting" way to do this route is to run this straight up the crack to the bird hole, not using the stems on the bottom half. If you stem on the right wall or use holds in or near the chimney, sorry, that's gonna have to be a penalty. \;o) Good pumpy climbing, eliminating the stems, with the crux moving above the flat table hold at mid height & finishing up and left. I wouldn't put this route in the 12- category, 11d might even be a stretch, but the Bow, Mrs. Hen, and this route together on this wall are really good Table Mtn routes.