Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Shield
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chicken Chop Suey T 
Knife Edge T 
Odyssey, The T 
Once In A Blue Moon T 
Procrastination T 
Promise Land, The T 
Purple Haze  T 
Rainbow Dancer T 
Route 2 T 
Route 6 T 
Slipping Into Darkness T 
Smorgasbord T 
Standard S Route T 

Chicken Chop Suey 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Robbie Baker and Charlie Ware. May of 1973
Season: Fall/ Winter
Page Views: 1,757
Submitted By: Orphaned on Oct 13, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
A fine climb that has laybacks, fingerlocks, fistj...

  • Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Juan Tabo Canyon is subject to annual access closures from March 1 to August 15. MORE INFO >>>

  • Chicken Chop Suey 

    The start is the same as for the first two pitches of Procrastination. Likely, there are several variations of the start, but once you gain the OW crack the route is pretty straight forward.

    P1: V0 to 5.4 Start with a technical overhanging pull that pros well with some small gear. Mantle up onto a very easy and gentle slab to a 2BA.

    P2: 5.8 Another technical start with a high-stepping layback that is well protected leads to stemming as you veer left and away from the ease of Procrastination. Large gear (purple big bro and #4 Camalot) takes you to a partial hanging belay stance before the OW goes near vertical. Unless you plan to run it out with an 80m rope, stop to set a belay here.

    P3: Crux 5.9R Re-rack the big pro and continue up one of the best OW cracks in the Sandias. There are several ways to climb this pitch, all of which are "legal." Have fun and don't fall.

    P4: 5.6 This is somewhat of a open-to-interpretation pitch. You can meander up through the trees for 45-55m to the left - or - 5.8 take the black layback section to the right with less brush 5.8.

    P5: If taking the left variation of P4, climb a short face section that pros well and climbs even better to avoid the gully farther left. This takes you to easier blocky terrain (no pro needed) for another 30-35m to a belay stance below a darkened patina face that is reminiscent of basalt.

    P6: Deceivingly good rock abounds and you can make up your own way (5.6-5.7) on this pitch to gain the open book 30 feet up from the belay. This will lead to a gentle right angling course towards a 2BA and great views of not only the Rainbows, but also of The Odyssey (the very exposed arete climb to the right. This variation is not the original line, but one that was put up by Andy ? (6'9") and is remarkably better than taking the left ramp out from the large pine tree to the left of this variation. You can also finish to the right in a left facing dihedral (just left of the Odyssey) for those pitches as well.

    p7: From the 2BA, step up and master the slab moves to a bolt. The secure feeling of having clipped the bolt, and the easier terrain for the remaining fun face climbing should be a memorable experience.

    Generally, this climb is done in 10 pitches. But with a 70m rope, some bigger gear, and a little perseverance, you can knock this out in about 7 pitches and 4-5 hours of climbing time. I've done this climb in January in good weather conditions.

    Location 

    From second pitch of Procrastination, veer slightly left into the first dihedral. The off-width fun will become apparent quickly.

    Protection 

    #5 Camalot and purple and green Big Bros are nice. Bring some big gear for sure and rack small wires, a set of TCUs as well. 8-10 slings, 5 QDs, 70m rope is nice...or two 50m ropes. You will leave gear if you have to bail - high commitment grade - check the weather before you go.


    Photos of Chicken Chop Suey Slideshow Add Photo
    Belay station after pitch 2 1/2, on a 70m rope. This fun 5.8 layback is just below the tree, coming up to join pitch 3. Slight hanging belay, no bolts here.
    BETA PHOTO: Belay station after pitch 2 1/2, on a 70m rope. Th...
    Did I lead us right? I'm belaying at the middle of pitch 7 on the "3rd class" section. Nice patina rock below, but zero bolts and only 4 pieces placed-airy, but not harder than 5.6-5.7.
    BETA PHOTO: Did I lead us right? I'm belaying at the middle of...
    PITCH 3: Cranking Skills or Hospital Bills. Robb McLean opts for the former, stemming on the crux off width. Classic 5.9-Yosemite style! Pro is good, just bring big stuff.
    BETA PHOTO: PITCH 3: Cranking Skills or Hospital Bills. Robb M...
    On pitch 6. Although Robb looks like he is doing weed control, we found this "open to interpretation" section a nice 5.8, avoiding the left crack laden with thorn bushes.
    BETA PHOTO: On pitch 6. Although Robb looks like he is doing w...
    2 #4, 2 #5 (could get away with one) and 2 #6 Camalots (no BigBros) were sufficient for the off width pitch.
    BETA PHOTO: 2 #4, 2 #5 (could get away with one) a...
    Pay attention here! We opted for the route in red after the "3rd class" ramp at pitch 7 1/2, but should have traversed left towards the arete (blue line), where the arch was. The red arrow indicates where the double bolt belay station is. The last pitch, with a few bolts and fun 5.8-5.9 mantles/smears beckon.
    BETA PHOTO: Pay attention here! We opted for the route in red ...
    The famous "bivy ledge" on pitch 5 (our 3rd pitch with 70m rope). Lunchtime!
    The famous "bivy ledge" on pitch 5 (our 3rd pitch ...

    Comments on Chicken Chop Suey Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Clark Gray
    Jan 31, 2008

    Just wanted to say Charlie Ware was realy neglected in the history and guide books of the Sandias. Glad this your favorite route.
    By Steven VanSickle
    From: Ouray, Co
    Jul 10, 2008

    How gnarly is the 3rd pitch? how long is it, and can you get a knee in it?
    By pierceadams
    From: Santa Fe NM
    Aug 30, 2008

    would a #6 camalot work well in the OW? I ask cause I don't know the BigBro sizing.
    By mtnrobb
    Dec 3, 2008
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

    We did this in 8 pitches - 5 of them 65M or so. 3 pitches to the ledge at pitch 5 on Procrastination. 2#6, 1#5 and 2#4 camalots would probably be enough big stuff. Personally wouldn't want less than that. Great climbing through the off-width and well protected if you bring big stuff - it doesn't climb like a hard-core off-width pitch (no super heinous groveling, hand-fist stacks, etc.) We finished on the Perkins(?) var. at the top unwittingly... at the second to last belay I climbed up to the mantel (not knowin I was on this variation) and couldn't see any pro opportunities above, and so did an entirely unprotected rightward traverse for 25 feet before heading up and back left to the anchors that I finally spotted. Not recommended. Of note, I have also climbed off route from that same belay up and left to the tree belay marked "10" in the Schein book on the original finish - pretty spicy and also not recommended. Not sure how I got so off-route both times!