Chicken Chop Suey  5.9+ R

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  Robbie Baker and Charlie Ware. May of 1973 Season:  Fall/ Winter Submitted By:  Orphaned on Oct 13, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: 2 #4, 2 #5 (could get away with one) a...

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The Shield is seasonally closed. MORE INFO >>> The Shield is only open from mid-August through February for peregrine falcons even though they are no longer protected, so you'll have to plan accordingly. The Knife Edge is open year-round. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Juan Tabo Canyon is subject to annual access closures from March 1 to August 15. MORE INFO >>> The USFS-imposed closure applies to UNM Spire, the Prow, the Ramp, and the Shield (but not the Knife Edge). The Needle, and its south and east approaches, are unaffected. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Chicken Chop Suey 

The start is the same as for the first two pitches of Procrastination. Likely, there are several variations of the start, but once you gain the OW crack the route is pretty straight forward.

P1: V0 to 5.4 Start with a technical overhanging pull that pros well with some small gear. Mantle up onto a very easy and gentle slab to a 2BA.

P2: 5.8 Another technical start with a high-stepping layback that is well protected leads to stemming as you veer left and away from the ease of Procrastination. Large gear (purple big bro and #4 Camalot) takes you to a partial hanging belay stance before the OW goes near vertical. Unless you plan to run it out with an 80m rope, stop to set a belay here.

P3: Crux 5.9R Re-rack the big pro and continue up one of the best OW cracks in the Sandias. There are several ways to climb this pitch, all of which are "legal." Have fun and don't fall.

P4: 5.6 This is somewhat of a open-to-interpretation pitch. You can meander up through the trees for 45-55m to the left - or - 5.8 take the black layback section to the right with less brush 5.8.

P5: If taking the left variation of P4, climb a short face section that pros well and climbs even better to avoid the gully farther left. This takes you to easier blocky terrain (no pro needed) for another 30-35m to a belay stance below a darkened patina face that is reminiscent of basalt.

P6: Deceivingly good rock abounds and you can make up your own way (5.6-5.7) on this pitch to gain the open book 30 feet up from the belay. This will lead to a gentle right angling course towards a 2BA and great views of not only the Rainbows, but also of The Odyssey (the very exposed arete climb to the right. This variation is not the original line, but one that was put up by Andy ? (6'9") and is remarkably better than taking the left ramp out from the large pine tree to the left of this variation. You can also finish to the right in a left facing dihedral (just left of the Odyssey) for those pitches as well.

p7: From the 2BA, step up and master the slab moves to a bolt. The secure feeling of having clipped the bolt, and the easier terrain for the remaining fun face climbing should be a memorable experience.

Generally, this climb is done in 10 pitches. But with a 70m rope, some bigger gear, and a little perseverance, you can knock this out in about 7 pitches and 4-5 hours of climbing time. I've done this climb in January in good weather conditions.

Location 

From second pitch of Procrastination, veer slightly left into the first dihedral. The off-width fun will become apparent quickly.

Protection 

#5 Camalot and purple and green Big Bros are nice. Bring some big gear for sure and rack small wires, a set of TCUs as well. 8-10 slings, 5 QDs, 70m rope is nice...or two 50m ropes. You will leave gear if you have to bail - high commitment grade - check the weather before you go.

Photos of Chicken Chop Suey Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Belay station after pitch 2 1/2, on a 70m rope. Th...	BETA PHOTO: PITCH 3: Cranking Skills or Hospital Bills. Robb M...	The famous "bivy ledge" on pitch 5 (our 3rd pitch ...
BETA PHOTO: On pitch 6. Although Robb looks like he is doing w...	BETA PHOTO: Did I lead us right? I'm belaying at the middle of...	BETA PHOTO: Pay attention here! We opted for the route in red ...
A fine climb that has laybacks, fingerlocks, fistj...