Chicken Chickenhead  5.6

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.6 [details] FA:  Larry Evans and Rich Ream Submitted By:  Ryan Brough on Apr 11, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Chicken Chickenhead climbs the big corner just bel...

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The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>> Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress. Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing. Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access. In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Start up a fist crack between a slab on your right and a steep face on your left. Several large chickenheads provide jugs for those with poor crack climbing technique. Stem through a long trough chimney to what appears to be a belay underneath a right-facing dihedral. The crux is getting into the dihedral. I'm pretty sure that the chickenhead at the crux is the reason for the route's name.

Location 

Just left of the Waltz, Chicken Chickenhead climbs the trough chimney underneath the tree that grows out of the rock beneath the Callitwhatyouplease rappel. Use the Callitwhatyouplease rappel to get down.

Protection 

Medium to large camming devices or big hexes for the more passive personalities. There are some slings below the crux in case you don't want to top out.