Climb the face up to the hanging corner (which Trotsky follows), and break left up the steep, juggy flake ladder. Pull up on to the slab(the guidebook called this the crux, but I though the steep climbing was harder, if more secure)and follow the small, left facing corner to a ledge and a gear anchor. Alternatively, traverse right from the ledge and belay from the slings at the top of Trotsky's Corner.
The steep face before the stone stairs on the right end of the precipice. Just left of Trotsky's Corner.
The first twenty feet doesn't have that much gear, but you can get a bomber #7-8 nut in a fingerlock slot about twelve feet up. Other than that, finger sized cams work great behind the flakes.
BETA PHOTO: Top portion of Chicken by the Sea
|By Chris Duca|
From: Havertown, PA
Aug 21, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
The correct route name is "Chicken OF the Sea". Gear is sufficient after the initial 15 feet, and remember to steer right into the final 5 feet of "Trotsky" at the top, otherwise you will be greeted by a heinous, grassy mantle.