In the true spirit of Pilot Mountain, this once spicy trad lead has been neutered into a 10-bolt sport climb.
Nice little ledges and crimps lead you up the face, past a small seam and a flake to the ledge. Pull up onto the face above the ledge and head for the top. Consistent 5.7, with great moves and good exposure for Pilot.
Starts about 10 feet right of Vegomatic, at a small overhang.
Sport- 10 bolts and anchors at the top.
Trad- Bring a standard rack. The opening moves are protected, but then there isn't much available until you reach the ledge system about 40-50 feet up. Falling here isn't really an option. 5.7 X.
Near the top
BETA PHOTO: On Chicken Bone
|By Bill Webster|
Feb 28, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Now a 10 bolt sport route. Probably the best route at Pilot.
From: carrboro, nc
Mar 12, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
^ Agreed. A great lead climb with the new bolts added.
From: Durham, NC
Mar 15, 2014
Bring 12 draws and a 60 meter rope. Amazing climb.
|By George Best|
Apr 6, 2014
There is a loose flake that serves as a rather critical hold on the lower section. Would gluing it for stability be legal for NC ethics standards?