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Parking Lot
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chicken Bone T,S,TR 
Pilot Error aka Right Chicken Bone TR 
Thin to Win S,TR 
Vegomatic T,TR 

Chicken Bone 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,616
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Feb 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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BETA PHOTO: Chicken Bone, looking up from the base.

Description 

In the true spirit of Pilot Mountain, this once spicy trad lead has been neutered into a 10-bolt sport climb.

Nice little ledges and crimps lead you up the face, past a small seam and a flake to the ledge. Pull up onto the face above the ledge and head for the top. Consistent 5.7, with great moves and good exposure for Pilot.

Location 

Starts about 10 feet right of Vegomatic, at a small overhang.

Protection 

Sport- 10 bolts and anchors at the top.

Trad- Bring a standard rack. The opening moves are protected, but then there isn't much available until you reach the ledge system about 40-50 feet up. Falling here isn't really an option. 5.7 X.


Photos of Chicken Bone Slideshow Add Photo
Near the top
Near the top
On Chicken Bone
BETA PHOTO: On Chicken Bone

Comments on Chicken Bone Add Comment
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By Eduardo Ramirez
From: Columbia, SC
Sep 7, 2011

By Bill Webster
Feb 28, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Now a 10 bolt sport route. Probably the best route at Pilot.
By Crushin' Prussian
From: carrboro, nc
Mar 12, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

^ Agreed. A great lead climb with the new bolts added.
By MattThomas
From: Durham, NC
Mar 15, 2014

Bring 12 draws and a 60 meter rope. Amazing climb.
By George Best
Apr 6, 2014

There is a loose flake that serves as a rather critical hold on the lower section. Would gluing it for stability be legal for NC ethics standards?