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Chicken Bone T,S,TR 
Pilot Error aka Right Chicken Bone TR 
Thin to Win S,TR 
Vegomatic T,TR 

Chicken Bone 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 2,190
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Feb 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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BETA PHOTO: On Chicken Bone


In the true spirit of Pilot Mountain, this once spicy trad lead has been neutered into a 10-bolt sport climb.

Nice little ledges and crimps lead you up the face, past a small seam and a flake to the ledge. Pull up onto the face above the ledge and head for the top. Consistent 5.7, with great moves and good exposure for Pilot.


Starts about 10 feet right of Vegomatic, at a small overhang.


Sport- 10 bolts and anchors at the top.

Trad- Bring a standard rack. The opening moves are protected, but then there isn't much available until you reach the ledge system about 40-50 feet up. Falling here isn't really an option. 5.7 X.

Photos of Chicken Bone Slideshow Add Photo
Chicken Bone, looking up from the base.
BETA PHOTO: Chicken Bone, looking up from the base.
Near the top
Near the top
Just after the 4th bolt on "chicken bone"...
Just after the 4th bolt on "chicken bone"...

Comments on Chicken Bone Add Comment
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By Eduardo Ramirez
From: Columbia, SC
Sep 7, 2011

By Bill Webster
Feb 28, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Now a 10 bolt sport route. Probably the best route at Pilot.
By Crushin' Prussian
From: carrboro, nc
Mar 12, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

^ Agreed. A great lead climb with the new bolts added.
By MattThomas
From: Durham, NC
Mar 15, 2014

Bring 12 draws and a 60 meter rope. Amazing climb.
By George Best
Apr 6, 2014

There is a loose flake that serves as a rather critical hold on the lower section. Would gluing it for stability be legal for NC ethics standards?
By Vince Buffalini
Mar 25, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

^ I used this flake, my 6'3" partner didn't have to. Pull down not out.
By Dylan B.
May 18, 2015

TR'ed this yesterday with a 25 lb. pack on to top out at the end of the day; made it pretty strenuous. Lots of fun, though.
By Benandstuff
From: Winston-Salem, NC
May 31, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A great climb, uniquely long for pilot. I gave a 5.8 because the crux (right below the overhang) is too crimpy to really consider 5.7 material. Also, the length of the route comes into consideration.

If you are top-roping, use the Jomeokee trail to save on stairs and time.
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