Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Parking Lot
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chicken Bone T,S,TR 
Pilot Error aka Right Chicken Bone S,TR 
Thin to Win S,TR 
Vegomatic T,TR 

Chicken Bone 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 2,370
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Feb 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: On Chicken Bone


In the true spirit of Pilot Mountain, this once spicy trad lead has been neutered into a 10-bolt sport climb.

Nice little ledges and crimps lead you up the face, past a small seam and a flake to the ledge. Pull up onto the face above the ledge and head for the top. Consistent 5.7, with great moves and good exposure for Pilot.


Starts about 10 feet right of Vegomatic, at a small overhang.


Sport- 10 bolts and anchors at the top.

Trad- Bring a standard rack. The opening moves are protected, but then there isn't much available until you reach the ledge system about 40-50 feet up. Falling here isn't really an option. 5.7 X.

Photos of Chicken Bone Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chicken Bone, looking up from the base.
BETA PHOTO: Chicken Bone, looking up from the base.
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the top
Near the top
Rock Climbing Photo: Just after the 4th bolt on "chicken bone"...
Just after the 4th bolt on "chicken bone"...

Comments on Chicken Bone Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eduardo Ramirez
From: Columbia, SC
Sep 7, 2011

By Bill Webster
Feb 28, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Now a 10 bolt sport route. Probably the best route at Pilot.
By Crushin' Prussian
From: carrboro, nc
Mar 12, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

^ Agreed. A great lead climb with the new bolts added.
By MattThomas
From: Mount Lookout, WV
Mar 15, 2014

Bring 12 draws and a 60 meter rope. Amazing climb.
By George Best
Apr 6, 2014

There is a loose flake that serves as a rather critical hold on the lower section. Would gluing it for stability be legal for NC ethics standards?
By Vince Buffalini
Mar 25, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

^ I used this flake, my 6'3" partner didn't have to. Pull down not out.
By Dylan B.
May 18, 2015

TR'ed this yesterday with a 25 lb. pack on to top out at the end of the day; made it pretty strenuous. Lots of fun, though.
By Benandstuff
From: Winston-Salem, NC
May 31, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A great climb, uniquely long for pilot. I gave a 5.8 because the crux (right below the overhang) is too crimpy to really consider 5.7 material. Also, the length of the route comes into consideration.

If you are top-roping, use the Jomeokee trail to save on stairs and time.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!