Nicely varied, Chick flick is 100 feet or so left of Lady Pillar. Begin at a right-facing corner and use the off-finger/tight hands crack to surmount the pillar (about 25 feet). Once on the pillar climb the left-facing corner and crack system for about 95 more feet. Right off the pillar the crack is off-width and gets progressively more narrow until the last 15 feet which are 0.75 camalot-sized.
0.5 camalot up to a # 5 camalot (old size). Doubles recommended from 0.5 to #3 camalots, and maybe three 0.75 camalots (I placed one at the bottom and two at the top).
Nov 29, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
We were a little confused by the description in the book and started on the pillar left of the corner in some choss. Nice varied route after the first 25 feet. I thought it protected well with 2 #4 C4s, no need for a 5. If the direct start goes at .10 it would be a great route at that grade.