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The Optimator
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"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 
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Casey's Route T 
Charlie's Pillar T 
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Unknown T 
Unnamed 11+ T 
Unsorted Routes:

Chick Flick 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,140
Submitted By: Danny Inman on Nov 3, 2006

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Description 

Nicely varied, Chick flick is 100 feet or so left of Lady Pillar. Begin at a right-facing corner and use the off-finger/tight hands crack to surmount the pillar (about 25 feet). Once on the pillar climb the left-facing corner and crack system for about 95 more feet. Right off the pillar the crack is off-width and gets progressively more narrow until the last 15 feet which are 0.75 camalot-sized.

Protection 

0.5 camalot up to a # 5 camalot (old size). Doubles recommended from 0.5 to #3 camalots, and maybe three 0.75 camalots (I placed one at the bottom and two at the top).


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By Josh Gross
Nov 5, 2006

FA Josh Gross
By 303scott
Nov 29, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

We were a little confused by the description in the book and started on the pillar left of the corner in some choss. Nice varied route after the first 25 feet. I thought it protected well with 2 #4 C4s, no need for a 5. If the direct start goes at .10 it would be a great route at that grade.