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Chica Bonita Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baby Blue Eyes S 
Be My Yoko Ono T 
Bessie S 
Brown Eyed Girl S 
Cheaper Than a Movie T 
Colt 45 S 
Dude Abides, The S 
Flying The Bird S 
Hellava Caucasian S 
Hot Drama Teacher S 
I'll Take Sue S 
King Cobra S 
Laying Pipe under the Bridge T 
Mary Pop-Parazzi S 
Old English S 
Pocahontas Path S 
Raindancer S 
Ridin' the Short Buzz S 
Rinse and Repeat T 
She Might be a Liar S 
Size Doesn't Matter S 
Spice of Life, The T 
That's What She Said S 
When Rats Attack S 
You Take Sally S 

Chica Bonita Wall  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.65078, -83.72161 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,906
Administrators: Jason Halladay, saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: eDixon on Nov 19, 2007

84° | 62°

77° | 52°

63° | 45°

70° | 50°
Columbus Day

74° | 53°

70° | 49°
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This crag is a relatively new addition to climbing at The Red. The wall is host to a mixture of trad and sport routes. Chica Bonita is a good wall for more moderate climbing, as the routes tend to be vertical slabs rather than overhanging pumpers. Ratings range from 5.8 - 5.11. Some of the routes have not seen a lot of traffic and can be slightly dirty, but the rock is of good quality and should clean up with time.

Getting There 

From the parking for "Bob Marley", etc...hike back down the road you came in on. After about one hundred feet, two roads will head left up the hill. Take the road on the right. Continue up this road to the top of the hill. Here you will see an old oil pump near a small cliff. Take a trail right and down around the cliff to the wall. The approach should take about 10 minutes.

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.2 miles from here

25 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chica Bonita Wall:
Be My Yoko Ono   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Cheaper Than a Movie   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Ridin' the Short Buzz   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Brown Eyed Girl   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
The Spice of Life   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 70'   
Flying The Bird   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Old English   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
That's What She Said   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Baby Blue Eyes   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Hot Drama Teacher   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Size Doesn't Matter   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
I'll Take Sue   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
The Dude Abides   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
You Take Sally   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Chica Bonita Wall

Featured Route For Chica Bonita Wall
Cheaper Than A Movie

Cheaper Than a Movie 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Chica Bonita Wall
The route ascends a long, right-facing dihedral towards the center of the wall. Climb up through a section of broken cracks to gain a cleaner, tight-hands crack in a corner. Follow the corner as it continues up and starts to arch to the right. When the corner ends, make a few moves on the slabby face to the two bolt anchor just below the top of the cliff. * The guidebook says that a single 60m rope is enough to lower off this route. It will be really close! It might be wise to use a 70m j...[more]   Browse More Classics in KY

Local Information for Chica Bonita Wall
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By Kari-Hemmert
Sep 6, 2015
Word of warning for those planning to use the approach info in the red river gorge south book to find this wall. We were one of three groups in an hour who showed up to Chica Bonita after having gotten terribly lost trying to follow the book's approach beta. I plan to write to the editors so that they can update the beta, but until then, the approach info on this page is pretty solid. This page says you'll see two roads on your left going uphill: the one on the left is very overgrown and looks miserable; once you start hiking up the road on the right you'll see a sign confirming that you're headed to Chica Bonita. Unfortunately this sign is currently hidden by plant life and easy to miss.
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