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This crag is a relatively new addition to climbing at The Red. The wall is host to a mixture of trad and sport routes. Chica Bonita is a good wall for more moderate climbing, as the routes tend to be vertical slabs rather than overhanging pumpers. Ratings range from 5.8 - 5.11. Some of the routes have not seen a lot of traffic and can be slightly dirty, but the rock is of good quality and should clean up with time.
From the parking for "Bob Marley", etc...hike back down the road you came in on. After about one hundred feet, two roads will head left up the hill. Take the road on the right. Continue up this road to the top of the hill. Here you will see an old oil pump near a small cliff. Take a trail right and down around the cliff to the wall. The approach should take about 10 minutes.
19 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Chica Bonita Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chica Bonita Wall:
Cheaper Than a Movie 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Be My Yoko Ono 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Ridin' the Short Buzz 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Brown Eyed Girl 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
The Spice of Life 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 70'
When Rats Attack 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Flying The Bird 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
That's What She Said 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Baby Blue Eyes 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Size Doesn't Matter 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Hot Drama Teacher 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
I'll Take Sue 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Bessie 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
The Dude Abides 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
You Take Sally 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Chica Bonita Wall
Cheaper Than a Movie 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Chica Bonita Wall
The route ascends a long, right-facing dihedral towards the center of the wall. Climb up through a section of broken cracks to gain a cleaner, tight-hands crack in a corner. Follow the corner as it continues up and starts to arch to the right. When the corner ends, make a few moves on the slabby face to the two bolt anchor just below the top of the cliff. * The guidebook says that a single 60m rope is enough to lower off this route. It will be really close! It might be wise to use a 70m j...[more] Browse More Classics in KY
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