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 ADVANCED
Rappel Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baradur T 
Bender-Axen T 
Black Magic Woman T 
Black Quacker T 
Charadras T 
Chiboni T 
Chicken Sh*t Sandwich T 
Corner, The T 
Helm's Deep T 
Lude T 
Not So Easy Arch T 
Other Way, The T 
Quick Death T 
Standard Route T 
Voodoo Child S 
Voodoo Child (direct start) T 
Unsorted Routes:

Chiboni 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike McEwen, Dave Baker, 1971
Page Views: 3,556
Submitted By: Anonymous Climber on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Greg on the classic test piece Chiboni.

  • Closed to climbing, March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>
  • Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Chiboni is a wonderfully challenging pitch of slab climbing at the base of Rappel Rock. You can use this as a starting pitch for any of the lines that head for the tree ledge where the Standard Route/Black Quacker end their first pitches. Start a bit left of the toe of the buttress, move up and around the right end of a low roof and then up the undulating face above. As I said above, there are some good stretches between bolts and you'll have to keep your head about you. A Rap Rock classic!!

    Apparently a Chiboni is a sort of Russian bagpipe also called a Gudastviri. Not sure if that's where the name came from, just what a web search turned up. The gudastviri is a droneless, double-chantered, horn-belled bagpipe played in Georgia. The term comes from the words guda (bag) and stviri (whistling). In some regions, the instrument is called the chiboni, stviri, or tulumi.

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chiboni

    Maybe one of the older Tucson climbers could confirm or deny this is where the name came from?

    Protection 

    Chiboni is bolted (and there used to be a fixed pin), but hardly a sport route. Some good stretches of slab paddling are required between clips.


    Photos of Chiboni Slideshow Add Photo
    Keith Hoek leads Chiboni
    Keith Hoek leads Chiboni

    Comments on Chiboni Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 15, 2012
    By Steve Pulver
    From: Williston, ND
    May 24, 2004
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    The distance between bolts on this route makes for some scary runouts.
    By jbak
    Feb 13, 2006

    The combination of Chiboni, Quick Death and Voodoo Child is a Tucson classic.
    By jbak
    Feb 21, 2006

    Hey greg...I did VC back when it was rusty buttonheads !

    Assuming the bolts are still where they were, I would classify VC as "mentally absorbing" rather than scary. Where it's 5.11a, the bolt is nearby. As you get above the bolt, the climbing gets easier at exactly the rate necessary to keep panic at bay as the bolt recedes. After doing the 5.6 moves to gain the ledge I looked down and saw nothing but rope, the bolt was out of sight. Perfect. The day I did the Chiboni/QD/VC combo, Steiger was there making drawings for his guidebook. The Summit Hut guide said VC was 5.10 but I had heard it was harder. I yelled down to John "Hey is that 5.11 ?". He said "Yes". I said "cool, my first 5.11 flash". He said "Mine too !".
    By Jimbo
    Mar 8, 2006

    Jbak, great anecdote.
    Isn't it amazing how the farther you get above the gear the more likly it becomes your going to onsite the pitch.
    I miss the old days sometimes. It's too easy to go out and clip bolts now. No more pumping yourself up for the "headpoint".
    Times change, I've gone to the dark side, like so many others.
    Every now and then it's good to jump on a route like Voodoo Child or Straight Arrow. Just you remind yourself of the way things were, "back in the day".
    By Christian
    From: Casa do Cacete
    Sep 6, 2006
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

    Sweet pitch.. Beautiful rock too..
    By James DeRoussel
    Administrator
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Jun 30, 2008

    One of the best slab climbs in Arizona.
    By 1Eric Rhicard
    Jun 30, 2008

    James if you like slabs the place to go is Out of Towners Dome in the East Stronghold. Not only the best but probably also the hardest. The other good ones on Rap are Voodoo Child and Black Magic Woman
    By mrbiscoop
    Aug 20, 2011

    Lead this back in '93 or so with my old friend Charlie King.
    By adrian korosec
    From: tucson,az
    Aug 15, 2012

    Looking for a little beta here.

    Comming in from the left does one use the underside of the roof as a layback, or the crack where the roof meets the slab? I started using the little crack but thought it was a bit easier standing up and unclinging the underside of the roof, however that requires blind groping.

    Climbing directly straight up to the right side of the roof looks much harder than traversing in from upper left.

    Was there a pin under the roof in the past? Small TCUs are a chore to get in. After the roof things become manageable, but up to, and around the roof is tough to climb and protect. Great pitch!
    By Hendrixson
    Administrator
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Aug 15, 2012
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

    Up until a few years ago there was a piton at the roof prior to the first bolt. I've climbed it both with and without the piton and believe that despite the gear being adequate it ups the commitment level.

    I tend to start slightly to the left, place gear in the obvious weakness in the roof, and then move to the right where the slab is less blank. Never seen anyone else do it so there may be a better way.

    Hope this helps.