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Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H)
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.9 from 11
votes
Routes in 07: Brinton's Buttress
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Berkeley T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Berkeley Direct TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Brinton's Corner T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Brinton's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Brinton's Direct T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cheap Thrills T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Chiaroscuro TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H) TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chicago T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Evanston Township T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Evanston Township Direct T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Golf Road TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Puff N' Grunt Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rococo Variations T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rubberman TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Sheep Thrills T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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South Side T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Stool Pigeon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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| Type: | TR, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | Before Chiaroscuro |
| Page Views: | 1,832 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Knower on Dec 4, 2006 |
| Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
The H links the cruxes of both Chiaroscuro and Brinton's Direct.
Start on Chiaroscuro and climb up the steep, thin wall, past the undercling crux to the point where the Brinton's traverse cuts across the wall. From here, move left (effectively reversing the traverse) to the rectangular niche. It is possible to find an average rest here.
Now, launch into the upper crux of Brinton's Direct. The climbing here is quite pumpy and tricky, and with the pump gained from the lower climbing, certainly feels 5.10.
This link up is quite sustained and is the hardest way up this face.
Start on Chiaroscuro and climb up the steep, thin wall, past the undercling crux to the point where the Brinton's traverse cuts across the wall. From here, move left (effectively reversing the traverse) to the rectangular niche. It is possible to find an average rest here.
Now, launch into the upper crux of Brinton's Direct. The climbing here is quite pumpy and tricky, and with the pump gained from the lower climbing, certainly feels 5.10.
This link up is quite sustained and is the hardest way up this face.
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