Cheyenne is basically the first sport route you will encounter as you are walking uphill from Creekside Wall towards the Pinnacle area. Look up at the wall just after climbing over some big, exposed tree roots, and where you have reached a small clearing in the bushes. You should see at least 3 blots ranging upwards on the wall.
Donít let the distance to the first bolt discourage you, as most of the opening holds are pretty big; just go for it and leave the stick clip at home. Forage upwards, seeking to find some grasp for the fingers; think resting on your feet, eh? At the third bolt, make a devious move to the right and cop a good rest on a ledge. After regaining your composure, continue upwards as the character of the route changes. What was devious and cunning now becomes dynamic and juggy. A wonderful finish up a small headwall will lead towards some anchors that are strangely juxtaposed to the right of the last bolt, but what thet heck? Bring 8 quickdraws and you should be fine. Enjoy.
8 quickdraws should be just fine.
Aug 17, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
This is probably my favorite climb in Cheyenne canyon and one of my favorites in town. Very balancy and technical. It has a few 11 moves but it isnt a very sustained climb which in my opinion puts it in about the 10c range. Definitely a must do if you like climbs that involve crimps and technique. Stay away if you are looking for a jug haul...looking at this route from the trail is very deceiving as it does appear very juggy. That is definitely not the case. First bolt is rather high but it is probably 5.9 climbing to the first clip. Leave the stick clip at home.