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 ADVANCED
Chew Tooth

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Center Route S,TR 
Hand Crack T,TR 
Left Route S 
Uncle Fred's Vacation Plan S 

Chew Tooth  


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Location: 37.2269, -122.0996 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,993
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jul 5, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: Taken in the shade, for you will never find the Ch...

Description 

This shady rock sits atop the decent into the Underworld and its related rocks.

While quite small in height, approximately 30 feet, this rock offers a few challenging routes, and also a few warmups.

All routes off the Chew Tooth can be lowered off.

Getting There 

Approach Time: 15 - 25 minutes.

From the parking lot:Head downhill on the Saratoga Gap trail about 1/4 of a mile,until the first left turn, which indicated with a sign that it'stowards Catle Rock (0.3 miles).

Head up this trail until you see a signpost stating "trail ahead "though there is also a smaller trail that leads right anddownhill. You should take the downhill trail. This will shortly run you into a narrow dirt road which will have several branchings off of it. The one straigt ahead is the one your want to take.

This will quickly split into 2 trails, which you want to take the right one. After a very short while, you will see the top of the Chew Tooth on your left 10 feet left of the trail.

To access the top anchors, climb up, and there are the bolts. Tog et to the bottom, walk around either side, though the right approach is a little bit less loose.

Continuing on down the path pase the chew tooth will bring you into the Western Addition, and rocks like the Mud Wall, California Ridge, Henry and Otis, and the Underworld.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.7 miles from here

4 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chew Tooth:
Hand Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Uncle Fred's Vacation Plan   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 20'   
Browse More Classics in Chew Tooth

Featured Route For Chew Tooth
If you go straight up, it's 5.12a; if you access the center from the knobs on the left, there's only an 11d mantle to solve.

Center Route 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  CA : San Francisco Bay : ... : Chew Tooth
Climb the center smooth section of the rock, which goes upto a large round jug. If you "cheat" in from the left usingan excellent balancy move, and then pull the balancy mantle,the route is 5.11d and gets two stars. If you dyno up tothe large jug, and then pull the mantle, the route is anexcellent 5.12a. Continue up to the top of the rock, whereone more slightly tough move awaits....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Chew Tooth Slideshow Add Photo
This is what you can see on your left of the Chew Tooth coming from the quickest approach route.
BETA PHOTO: This is what you can see on your left of the Chew ...
Chew Tooth
Chew Tooth

Comments on Chew Tooth Add Comment
Show which comments
By Daniel Ws
From: Fountain valley
Sep 13, 2014
Awesome climb...... love the crux move