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East Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adagio T 
Adam's Rib T 
Beyond The Abyss S 
Block Party S 
Chestnut T 
Fun Park S 
Goldrush S 
Moondance S 
Neve Climb On S 
Northern Lights T,S 
Powder in the Sky T 
Say Goodbye To Hollywood T 
Slot Right Step Left T 
Slot, The T 
Sugar Mama T 
Yellow Latex Blues S 
Yorkey's Crumpet T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Royal Robbins, Bill Kees, 1978
Page Views: 290
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jan 1, 2006

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Think you can climb any 5.9 out there? Give this one a try (but it would probably be better to let your partner have it).

Look for a relatively short, right-facing corner uphill from The Slot a ways (not the black corner which is Sugar Mama but just uphill from there). Climb face up and past a piton to gain the corner. Gather your strength and courage, and try to pretend you are Royal Robbins. Continue up the corner using thin holds and smears with very little gear. If done today, I doubt people would have a problem with calling it 5.10b R, but in 1978 with not very good footwear, this was apparently 5.9.


A single set of small cams and stoppers, one quickdraw for piton.

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