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Bioturbation Wall
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Chest Full of Kind 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Karl Kelly
Page Views: 2,545
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 1, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: Brennan Crellin leading Chest Full of Kind. Notic...

Description 

The leftmost climb on the Bioturbation Wall and well left of all the other climbs - more easily approached from Way Rambo. Chest Full of Kind takes the right side of the obvious arch (visible from the road).

Steep & pumpy, but short.


Protection 

Mostly hands.



Photos of Chest Full of Kind Slideshow Add Photo
Don't Jam, Lie back instead, right hip high and in, until fore arms explode.
Don't Jam, Lie back instead, right hip high and in...
Leading 'Chest Full of Kind' on Halloween, hence the colorful hair, with Brittney belaying me.  This route is great fun in a beautiful arch, but i wish it was longer!
Leading 'Chest Full of Kind' on Halloween, hence t...
Before I had a chest full of kind.
Before I had a chest full of kind.
Comments on Chest Full of Kind Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 27, 2005

Killer route - thanks Karl

By blakeherrington
Apr 23, 2009

There's a flake halfway up the route with an "X" drawn on it. My partner an I both tested it and can't imagine it coming off anytime soon. Perhaps don't yank on the bottom lip as an undercling. It's possible to slide gear past the flake so that it isn't pressed on by a cam.

By D-Storm
Apr 1, 2012

I agree the flake is solid to tug on (for now). Though it's probably wise to not place gear behind it, I think this route is still reasonably safe.

By Brennan Crellin
From: Cedar Hills, UT
Oct 13, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

The "flake" has apparently been removed from the wall (not sure when that occurred). The slight 2ft roof (where the flake was) is now a fair 5.10+ crux. Great climb, and apparently a little safer now.