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Unsorted Routes:

Chemical Wire 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Travis Rypkema (late 90s?)
Page Views: 864
Submitted By: Eric Krantz on May 23, 2004

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Working out the crux on Chemical Wire.

Check NPS for Closures

Description 

This route starts about 100 feet left of Garfield (downhill direction - when standing at the base of Garfield, looking left it is the most prominent flaky crack you see and you'll notice it gets smaller as it goes up.) Climb up 5.7 about 30 feet to a small pod which starts a right-facing dihedral. The dihedral peters out soon enough into a flaring crack that gets smaller then bigger again and soon enough puts you under a little 2-ft roof. Work around the roof to the right and you'll find anchors there.

Protection 

Small and medium nuts and cams.


Photos of Chemical Wire Slideshow Add Photo
Chemical Wire as seen from near the base of Garfield Goes to Washington.  The light blip at the top of the photo is one of the anchors.
Chemical Wire as seen from near the base of Garfie...
CHansen on Chemical Wire
CHansen on Chemical Wire

Comments on Chemical Wire Add Comment
Show which comments
By CURT LOVE
May 27, 2004

If you are going up to onsight this thing. Have in your mind that you will be hanging out just a bit to dink in some gear here and there. 11d is right on but 12a is not far at all if you make some errors in the crux. Oh ya this thing is really really good. Nice job Travis, one of the best climbs in the area. Love CurtGEAR INFOsmall ta 2 inchand get after it1-11 HB's, small cams you can place some med cams as well+ one bolt down low
By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: New York, NY
May 28, 2004

Nice pics... this looks like a great climb!
By Eric Sutton
May 29, 2004
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I agree that the rating is 5.11d if you happen to hit it right and a little harder if you don't. The gear is great and a little fiddly at times. I prefer however to refer to the first ascentionist as "Cute Boy" Rypkema,aname name given to him by some of his adoring fans of whom I am one.
By Eric Krantz
From: Black Hills
Oct 30, 2005

The directions say 100' left of Garfield (facing the wall), I think it's more like 100 yds.
By josh balt
From: Hill City South Dakota
Aug 31, 2010

I had some good flight lessons on this one. Came back to send this thing after a couple attempts and a good size winger right before crux was over. Bomber gear right before the crux, place it then run it to the good holds just go for it. Its tottally worth it.