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Beckey's Wall Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Elementary My Dear Watson" T 
3rd Crack Over T 
Axis of Evil Arete T 
Beckey's Wall T 
Cheetah T 
Date with Fate T 
Fingertrip Variation T 
Fruit Loops T 
Hesitate No More T 
Hesitation T 
Needle's Eye Variation T 
Orange Sling, The T 
Pebbles and Bambam S,TR 
Shaken Climber Syndrome S 
Split Decision T 
Split Fingers T 
Split Pants T 
Sweet Jane Variation T 
Tarzan T 
Tingey's Direct T 
Tingey's Terror T 
Tingey's Torture T 

Cheetah 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Black, Black
Page Views: 1,274
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 8, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Cheetah and surroundings w/o lines

The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route starts just east of Beckey's Wall, but west of Tarzan. In other words there are 2 bolted lines east of Beckey's, and this is the left line. The 1st 2 pitches can definitely be combined. This climbing is sequential and thin, a testpiece of microflakes and crystals. Getting to the 1st anchors (around the bulge) is the crux. It starts tough and doesn't let up (my fingertips are still screaming). The 1st 3 bolts have similar moves--micro-flakes and fingertips of steel, however getting to the anchors from the pair of bolts (1 old and 1 new) is a body english problem to stump the best of us. The second pitch (or 2nd half of the 1st pitch) is a romp up the slab (5.10a) in comparison. Belay at the anchors. The 3rd pitch climb the roof with fist jams and liebacks, and then the climbing gets interesting again. It traverses left (5.10) on thin holds around a steep section and finally slabs up the next face.There are 2 suspect bolts here so be careful. Belay at the tree. Pitch 4....to be continued as it got dark and we bailed.

P.S. Dont just do pitch 1, get on up ignore the grit and do pitch 3 as this adds the spice that makes the climb fun.

Protection 

Draws no more than 6 per pitch, and also extra for the chain anchors. A couple piece of large gear for the roof.


Photos of Cheetah Slideshow Add Photo
Cheetah and surroundings with lines 1) Cheetah w/ dotted line being a variation of Cheetah  2) Tarzan 3) Tourist Variation  4)  Sweet Jane Variation
BETA PHOTO: Cheetah and surroundings with lines 1) Cheetah w/ ...

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By Vince Romney
Aug 10, 2004
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Lots of fun! Definitely agree with Nathan... do pitch one and two together, and then make the trip up pitch three as it offers some of the best climbing on the entire route. This was my first foray into 5.11 20 years ago and it still grabs my attention today. The crux bulge is always a puzzler... work those feet high!
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

i saw a guy skid down into the gully at left and break his ankle. off route i think. falling on this one aint to bad. good slabbiness.
By mikewhite
Apr 28, 2007

Two bad 1\4" button head bolts on last pitch replaced today by mike white and jon rogers. ASCA- SS bolts and hardware was used.
Thanks to clay watson and partner for fixing lines for us.
All bolts are now good.
mike white
ASCA
By zoso
Sep 4, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

Finally got on the 3rd pitch. Highly recommended. #3 cam for the initial roof. A 70 will land you back at the belay @ the top of Tarzan, but you have to put your rope around the belay tree. Pulled fine though.