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Cheeseburger in Paradise 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bill Kees, James Hebert
Page Views: 1,181
Submitted By: Tristan Perry on Aug 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Cheeseburger in Paradise, 5.10+ PG-13.

Description 

This consists of steep and spicy face climbing on traditional gear. No walk in the park, this climb is pumpy and committing from bottom to top. Tricky, balancy climbing with few places for gear leads to an awkward crack higher. Cheeseburger gives you the classic Ophir experience of making hard moves facing a good-sized fall. Some might find it hard not to overgrip, and as such, it's as much of a mental challenge as it is a physical exercise. I'd say 5.10 doesn't get much better than this for quality and experience.

It must be said that Ophir in general is stacked with brilliant 5.10 climbs.

Location 

This is center-right of Ophir Wall.

Protection 

Nuts and cams, maybe tricams, too.


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By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Jul 30, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Yet another desperate, potentially dangerous Ophir start. Forget the tricams, bring some toilet paper.

I'm sayin' PG-13 rating is jack serious. There's some real potential for real carnage down low if'n you're not half proficient at setting small, wonky, shallow gear. (Think a red C3 in a scandalous, flaring crack.) That said, the crux is protected fantastic by the baddest, most textbook #2 Camalot placement on the planet. Crammit and jammit; you could drop a Cadillac on that thing.

Then--SPOILER ALERT!--move out left side of the start of the Cheesburger crack for some of the most awesome/reckless/greasy lay-a-ways until you can slot your right hand blindly into that seam where the crack opens up. You're 15ft above that #2, Shugha. Better hope you brought that 0.4 C4. Or maybe a faded, yellow Alien. Or a AT LEAST a good cardiologist.

Plug, and now send 5.9 for top out glory. Laugh as your follower shouts "NO WAY! NOOO WAAAAY!" through the crux sequence. Life is joy.