|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||Bill Kees, James Hebert|
|Submitted By:||Tristan Perry on Aug 29, 2007|
|Comments on Cheeseburger in Paradise||Add Comment|
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By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Jul 30, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Yet another desperate, potentially dangerous Ophir start. Forget the tricams, bring some toilet paper.
I'm sayin' PG-13 rating is jack serious. There's some real potential for real carnage down low if'n you're not half proficient at setting small, wonky, shallow gear. (Think a red C3 in a scandalous, flaring crack.) That said, the crux is protected fantastic by the baddest, most textbook #2 Camalot placement on the planet. Crammit and jammit; you could drop a Cadillac on that thing.
Then--SPOILER ALERT!--move out left side of the start of the Cheesburger crack for some of the most awesome/reckless/greasy lay-a-ways until you can slot your right hand blindly into that seam where the crack opens up. You're 15ft above that #2, Shugha. Better hope you brought that 0.4 C4. Or maybe a faded, yellow Alien. Or a AT LEAST a good cardiologist.
Plug, and now send 5.9 for top out glory. Laugh as your follower shouts "NO WAY! NOOO WAAAAY!" through the crux sequence. Life is joy.