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 ADVANCED
Happy Hour Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are We Not Men T,TR 
Are We Not Robots T,TR 
Baby Aliens T 
Bad Sneakers TR 
Bent Faith T 
Big Spit, The T 
Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise T,TR 
Cruel Shoes TR 
Dementia T,TR 
Great Race, The T 
Grins T,TR 
Hands Off T 
I, Robot T,TR 
Last Call T,TR 
Last Laugh T,S,TR 
Malign T,TR 
Nightcap T,TR 
Rush Hour T,TR 
Seein' Double S 
Skid Row T 
Teetotaler T,S,TR 
Tipsey T,TR 
Twofers TR 
Twofers Bypass T,TR 
Twofers Gully T,TR 
Unknown Left Side T 

Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dave Rice and Erik Johnson, 1988, retrobolted by Ray Snead, Rick Leitner, and Kent Lugbill
Page Views: 2,474
Submitted By: George Bell on Aug 13, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (61)
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At the first bolt.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Rossiter calls this route "Thrill of the Chaise", but "Cheers" seems slightly more in line with the crag "naming conventions" (if there is such a thing).

Begin as for Dementia, but move right into a big, easy left facing corner (I remember going a few feet right of the line shown in the photo here).

From the left-facing corner, clip a bolt on the face to the left (this is a bit of a stretch). I find the crux is getting onto this face. Once on, climb straight up past another bolt to the top. You can place wired stoppers above the last bolt. Rossiter's topo has a two bolt anchor but I do not remember one in 1998. These would make toproping Cheers convenient.

Protection 

Light rack to 2". This is not a sport route.


Photos of Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise Slideshow Add Photo
7. Last Call, 9+. <br />8. Dementia, 10a. <br />9. Malign, 7. <br />10. Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise, 10a. <br />11. Tipsey, 9. <br />12. Nightcap, 9-.
BETA PHOTO: 7. Last Call, 9+.
8. Dementia, 10a.
9. Malign, 7.
...
Carol Kotchek at the last bolt.  Her next pro will be a #.75 Camalot in the crack ten feet higher.
Carol Kotchek at the last bolt. Her next pro will...
Cheers takes the same start as Malign. <br />Photo: Dave Fiorucci
BETA PHOTO: Cheers takes the same start as Malign.
Photo: Dave...
Above the second bolt.
Above the second bolt.

Comments on Cheers aka Thrill of the Chaise Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Nov 14, 2001

There most certainly is the 2 bolt anchor just up and above the top-out of the climb, below the actual top of the cliff. This route is quite nice, as most of the others at Happy Hour. Reaching the bolt is a bit of a stretch as indicated but the climbing can be eased by backing down and then getting just below and left of the bolt and following this line, I would say perhaps 10a this way 10b straight up and right of the bolt, as there is a funky foot match and small crimps to pull on. 2 stars.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 14, 2002
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

From the anchors you can also TR the right hand side of the arete directly to the left of this. This is essentially the outter edge of dimentia. It goes solid 5.11 with a single move to the right escaping the arete before returning to it just after. Climb from the top of the arete to the bolts. There would be no protection on lead.

Without this escape move, the route might be 5.11+.
By shad O'Neel
Sep 26, 2002

I thought above the second bolt was the crux. There is a bomber jug out right, but I couldn't really reach it, so slapped sloper and pulled hard. A green/yellow offset Alien provides comfort in the pod area. Committing layback to finish.
By Mike McKinnon
From: Golden, CO
Sep 9, 2003

This route has seem some alteration. I climbed this route for the first time in 1998. I remember the finish through the layback to be committing. It was an exciting route and my favorite on Happy Hour. I warm up here on the way to Security Risk a lot. I went back in 2000 or 2001 I cannot remember and someone had carved a small horn in the rock before the finishing layback moves. I could now throw a sling around the horn and protect the moves. It looked like someone brought a grinder up there and ground the horn down. This should be placed on the modified route list.
By Matt Burns
Jan 10, 2004

A #7 BD stopper fits quite nicely in a small crack above the horn to provide some protection above the second bolt.
By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 15, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Thought this was a wee bit harder than easy 5.10 to onsight, but seemed pretty easy a second time on TR once you knew the holds. I placed some mid-sized nuts down low and a #6 near the top...probably about a green Alien size pod. The horn did make it a lot easier.
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
May 15, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I have no idea what this horn is that everyone is talking about. I found the last few moves to be the crux, but then I got into the layback and it went really easily. You can sew up the last layback with a blue and yellow tcu if you like. A stopper would also work there.
By Goat
From: Boulder
Jun 14, 2009

I'm surprised to hear that horn was added. A great project for next time. Be prepared to place gear this is not a sport route.
By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 17, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Pretty disappointing to hear the horn was added. Totally changes the route and gives you a huge rest in the midst of a nice sequence. I'll try it next time without the modification.
By farkas.time
From: Sheffield, SY
Jul 19, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Reachy. Good TR.