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The tallest inland limestone outcrop in the UK, a busy tourist attraction, a cold, deep, gloomy gash in the landscape... Cheddar Gorge can be described in a multitude of ways, but there's no disputing that it is one of the UK's best sport climbing destinations. Where else can you find 4-pitch bolted routes, such a range of grades, or such a spectacular situation as the awesome routes on Sunset Buttress?
The current access agreement is rather complicated, and is described in detail in the guidebook. Roughly speaking, the gorge is split into the North side, owned by the national trust, and the South side, owned privately by Cheddar gorge and caves. Most of the North side is open year round, and most of the South side is only open during the winter (1st October - 15th March inclusive). In addition to this, there are sometimes bird bans between March and July. Check the access notes in the guidebook and the BMC Regional Access Database for the most up-to-date information.
Cheddar is a small village in the Mendips hills, famous for cheese, cider and the gorge. From Bristol, the A38 then A371 takes you directly there. From the South, M5 junction 22 gets you onto the A38, and from the North M5 junction 21 then the A371 is the best route. From London, take the M4 to Bristol and proceed from there.
The current definitive guide is Cheddar Gorge Climbs by Martin Crocker. The colour topos are excellent, and it is a comprehensive guide to the gorge, but the quality of the binding is lacking: treat it with care!
14 Total Routes
Featured Route For Cheddar Gorge
Coronation Street 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Europe : United Kingdom : ... : High Rock
A justifiably popular, classic route of historical significance, probably the best limestone E1 in the country and even today a serious undertaking. A massive route, in 5 (or 6) pitches.P1: 5.7, 40mClimb the corner to a belay on a sloping ledge at a large thread and old pitons. Rest here, because the rock now starts to angle back into a gentle overhang. This pitch can be split into two, but there isn't really a natural place to belay so best done as one. P2: 5.8+, 20mClimb the crack above, past ...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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