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Start at a prominant incut flake (not the jug rail just to the right) a bit left of center on the tall, slightly overhanging NW face of the 'Checkerboard Boulder'. Climb up and right to an exciting last move high off the deck. An excellent problem!
This climb is located on the boulder farthest right in this area. This boulder also happens to be the largest in the area, so finding it should not be difficult.
Four or more pads would be ideal. The sloping rock under the left part of this problem has leg-breaking potential.
Match the right hand and one more move up and righ...
|By Ben Snyder|
From: CSprings, Sandy Hook (CT)
Mar 26, 2008
Given V8 but felt like soft V7 to me. Still - rad rad rad!
|By Peter Franzen|
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 31, 2008
rating: V7-8 7B
I didn't find this to be as dangerous as many people make it out to be. The first moves are quite easy, and the crux at the end is easily protected by a few pads and a good spotter.
|By Colin R|
From: Ottawa, ON
Mar 9, 2013
rating: V7-8 7B
The beta that Andy uses is the preferred beta for me - i.e. going to the intermediate but slightly higher crimp instead of the massive iron cross move to the jug. Either way, this line is a stunner. The shorter variation (i.e. not starting too far to the left) is probably more just standard V7. I really ought to go back and finish it from the far left jug...
Aug 11, 2013
rating: V8 7B R
I understand that many don't understand why this would be dangerous - but there have been at least 2 broken legs (that I know of) from falls off this rig.
Crux is a bit harder if you're short.