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Mossy Ledges Area
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Barking Dog, The T 
Boldness, The T 
Cheatstone Crack T 
Chocolate Sunday T 
Coronary Bypass T 
CU on Top T 
Hookers and blow. T 
Hundred-Foot Stick Clip T,TR 
Numic Warrior T 
Pincushion T 
Pussy Nuts T 
Rapper's Disappointment T 
Roberto Duran T 
Secret Ingredient T 
Soylent Green Jeans T 
Stirling Moss T 

Cheatstone Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FRA: Karsten Duncan, Rex Parker, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 1,289
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Sep 2, 2008

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Higher in the crack.

Description 

High up, on the third tier of cliffs, there is a gem of a jam crack, similar in character and quality to Ragged Edges. The cheatstone itself is a boulder about the size of a fairly roomy utility shed. A few stems simplify the opening moves. Good hand jams lead up the steep, pocketed face to a small alcove with a wide crack. Stem to the top and walk off left.

Location 

Because this route is high up, on the third tier of cliffs, the obvious approach is to climb one of the routes (e.g. Numic Warrior or Pincushion) that end at this level, and walk left to the start of the crack. Alternatively, climb the slab above the top of Soylent Green Jeans (easy fourth or fifth class) and scramble right to the route.

Protection 

std rack


Photos of Cheatstone Crack Slideshow Add Photo
The Cheatstone Crack is high above Soylent Green J...
BETA PHOTO: The Cheatstone Crack is high above Soylent Green J...
Getting started; the belayer leans back against th...
Getting started; the belayer leans back against th...
Approach/descent for mossy ledges.
BETA PHOTO: Approach/descent for mossy ledges.

Comments on Cheatstone Crack Add Comment
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By billdlee
From: las vegas
Apr 20, 2009

The walk-off is a bear. Also a lot of loose rocks on the climb. U Need to be really careful with this route and test any facehold you plan on using. I had a foothold break off.

The crack is fun. The rock sucks :)
By Tom Fralich
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 28, 2014

This is a great pitch! There are some suspect flakes on the face, but the crack takes bomber gear the whole way. If this were closer to the parking, it would be as clean and popular as Ragged Edges. There's a bolted rap station on top that looked pretty new.