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Devil's Thumb
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Cheating Reality T 
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Cheating Reality 

YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Matt Wilder
New Route: Yes
Season: late summer, fall (seasonal closures)
Page Views: 2,990
Submitted By: bhoran on Oct 26, 2009

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The North/West face of Devil's Thumb from Shadow C...

  • Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Continuous steep and technical free climbing throughout. Crux in upper steep, overhung, headwall involving sloper, crimp, iron-cross move, similar to V10 bouldering. This climbs through and past the old aide line known as "Hangnail" (Copeland, circa 1983).

    Location 

    Located on the north face of the Devil's Thumb, hike up via Shadow Canyon trail and ascend talus field to saddle. Respect seasonal wildlife closures. These are posted. From a point on the northwest corner, climb up to left-leaning, obtuse corner system, then up steep, (crux) headwall.

    Protection 

    Marginal gear, first free ascent avoided fixed gear from old aid route.


    Photos of Cheating Reality Slideshow Add Photo
    From right to left, Tower of the Moon, Jam Crack Spire, The Pyramid, Devils Thumb, Devil's Horn's, and Sunset Wall as seen from the approach to Shadow Canyon.
    From right to left, Tower of the Moon, Jam Crack S...

    Comments on Cheating Reality Add Comment
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    By Toby Butterfield
    From: Portland, OR
    Jul 17, 2011

    The movie Core (2010) has footage of Matt's first ascent of this line. Pretty amazing looking.