Continuous steep and technical free climbing throughout. Crux in upper steep, overhung, headwall involving sloper, crimp, iron-cross move, similar to V10 bouldering. This climbs through and past the old aide line known as "Hangnail" (Copeland, circa 1983).
Located on the north face of the Devil's Thumb, hike up via Shadow Canyon trail and ascend talus field to saddle. Respect seasonal wildlife closures. These are posted. From a point on the northwest corner, climb up to left-leaning, obtuse corner system, then up steep, (crux) headwall.
Marginal gear, first free ascent avoided fixed gear from old aid route.
From right to left, Tower of the Moon, Jam Crack S...
|Comments on Cheating Reality
|By Toby B|
Jul 17, 2011
The movie Core (2010) has footage of Matt's first ascent of this line. Pretty amazing looking.