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Cheating Reality 
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Cheating Reality 

5.14a R

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus: 5.14a [details]
FA: Matt Wilder
New Route: Yes
Season: late summer, fall (seasonal closures)
Submitted By: bhoran on Oct 26, 2009

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The North/West face of Devil's Thumb from Shadow C...

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Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Continuous steep and technical free climbing throughout. Crux in upper steep, overhung, headwall involving sloper, crimp, iron-cross move, similar to V10 bouldering. This climbs through and past the old aide line known as "Hangnail" (Copeland, circa 1983).


Location 

Located on the north face of the Devil's Thumb, hike up via Shadow Canyon trail and ascend talus field to saddle. Respect seasonal wildlife closures. These are posted. From a point on the northwest corner, climb up to left-leaning, obtuse corner system, then up steep, (crux) headwall.


Protection 

Marginal gear, first free ascent avoided fixed gear from old aid route.



Photos of Cheating Reality Slideshow Add Photo
From right to left, Tower of the Moon, Jam Crack Spire, The Pyramid, Devils Thumb, Devil's Horn's, and Sunset Wall as seen from the approach to Shadow Canyon.

From right to left, Tower of the Moon, Jam Crack S...


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By Toby B
Jul 17, 2011

The movie Core (2010) has footage of Matt's first ascent of this line. Pretty amazing looking.