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 ADVANCED
Bill's Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agnostic T,TR 
Breakfast of Champions T 
Cheatah T,TR 
Coatimundi Crack T,TR 
Dark Corner, The T,TR 
Derek Smalls' Crack T,TR 
Dogleg T,TR 
Escalation T,TR 
Grand Inquisitor T,TR 
Ignominy T,TR 
Lysurgic Ledge T 
Mr. Bunney Meets The Poultry Man T,TR 
Prophet's Honor T,TR 
PushMi, Pull-Yu T,TR 
Talk to the Animals TR 
Tom Cat/Pussy Cat TR 

Cheatah 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 5,518
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Oct 12, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (74)
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Jules Cho. Photo by Andrew Burr.

Description 

Cheatah is a great, sustained climb on the long east face of Bill's Buttress. Start out by getting above a small 10" overhang using a few key foot placements (be prepared to stretch). Once above the overhang things get slightly easier using the finger crack. About 2/3's up there is a nearly blank face with a 10 foot crack. Use a combination of a layback and finger jams to conquer this section. From there to the top things get easier.


Protection 

Smaller range of stoppers or cams



Photos of Cheatah Slideshow Add Photo
Burt was convinced he could get a tiny wire in ...
Burt was convinced he could get a tiny wire in ...
Nate Erickson on Cheatah. Sept '11.
Nate Erickson on Cheatah. Sept '11.
Aaron enters the crux on "cheatah"
Aaron enters the crux on "cheatah"
Steve Dew on Cheatah
Steve Dew on Cheatah
Keller on Cheetah
Keller on Cheetah
Stew nearing the top of Cheetah, almost knocking off a very important piece of the photographers equipment. The swill.
Stew nearing the top of Cheetah, almost knocking o...
Burt pauses before the final section
Burt pauses before the final section
Jules Cho. Photo by Andrew Burr.
Jules Cho. Photo by Andrew Burr.
The last delicate move
The last delicate move
Staying to the left assures skeptics that no cheating was done.
Staying to the left assures skeptics that no cheat...
Nate on Cheatah.
Nate on Cheatah.
Cheatah follows the finger crack to the right of the rope
BETA PHOTO: Cheatah follows the finger crack to the right of t...
The pause that refreshes
The pause that refreshes
The protection you can place prior to launching into the crux section would hold a "Dan Osman" type fall
The protection you can place prior to launching in...
Ben Mahaffey on Cheatah
Ben Mahaffey on Cheatah
Phil Watts on Cheatah, June 2002
Phil Watts on Cheatah, June 2002
Andy Hansen mid-Cheatah.
Andy Hansen mid-Cheatah.
Idan mantles the Cheetah....
Idan mantles the Cheetah....
Another fine lead
Another fine lead
Ryan on Cheetah.
Ryan on Cheetah.
Austin moving up
Austin moving up
View from the bottom.
BETA PHOTO: View from the bottom.
Idan says "Ah" the hard stuff is over.
Idan says "Ah" the hard stuff is over.
Victory!  A clean run up.
Victory! A clean run up.
Cheatah
BETA PHOTO: Cheatah
dinking at gear
dinking at gear
Comments on Cheatah Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 10, 2012
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Oct 30, 2002
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Cheatah is one of the best and safest 5.10 leads at Devil's Lake. Imagine Watermarks culminating with a short 5.10 section--both the moves and the pro are very similar. On Cheetah, don't botch the pro going through the initial roof (hint: place one or more cams up and left when you are standing on the starting pedestal). Once past this initial section, bomber gear brings you to the crux--this protects very well (you can effectively build a belay before you launch onto the crux layback). Here you actually have some air between your feet and the ground, unlike the cruxes on many leads of similar difficulty (i.e. Congrats). All in all, I am surprised this route does not see more lead traffic, as it represents a great opportunity to break into the 5.10 grade at the Lake.

By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Jul 12, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Excellent route. I climbed it over the weekend on TR and really enjoyed it. This was my second ascent of the route, and I was able to ascend without any falls, so I went home happy. Get out and climb it!

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 16, 2004

The start "gets your attention" but the pro is decent and the moves seem easy once completed, the rest of the route is sheer joy, a mix of fingers, hands and lay aways with good pro, topped by a bit of a boulder problem (falls here are safe and spectacular). Probably the best real quartzite route at the lake.

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 26, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

i concur,,this is a killer 5.10a lead,great climbing and good gear and a bit longer than most dl routes

By Andrew May
From: Sandy, UT
Sep 22, 2006

I only toproped it this past weekend. It was my first Devils Lake 5.10. I didnt find it all that difficult. I'm sure its much different on lead, but after the first fifteen feet it was pretty chilled out. I think I had more trouble on Birch Tree Crack than this one. Just my $.02.

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 8, 2006

Andrew,

Most likely you used whatever was in reach at the top. This would make the top feel pretty cruiser, however the grade given is for staying strictly in the seam at the top never straying too far right. Like so many DL routes there are a few holds that are off. I did recently lead this for the first time in a long time and just used whatever I wanted. It is probably a better route that way...

By Ian Schmit
Nov 13, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

An excellent lead. Fairly sustained but perhaps due to my height I felt it was similar in difficulty to Congratulations.

By mattso
Feb 15, 2007
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Excellent route, I would listen to Jay beta's beta for gear and anyone could lead this. From what I remember congrats is much more of a crack climb, and there are many more face holds on cheeta.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Nov 16, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I climbed this route yesterday for the first time and it was an incredible climb- last climb of the day and the rocks were cold but this climb had great movement and kept me moving. However, I stopped as I got to the large ledge after the crux (thin, 10 ft. wall with fingercrack) is there anything "worth" going onto after this part? I was told just to stop after the crux but thinking back on it I don't feel that I really completed the whole climb.

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Nov 16, 2009

Andy, you *could* stop and belay your partner up to that point, then unrope and just scramble off. The 5.7 corner behind the pine tree isn't too exposed. You should double-check that this is what your partner really has in mind before you commit him to it. (Just giving you a hard time!)

If you are setting up a TR, it's fun to hang the rope out over the nose and finish the route that way, for the sake of the big dynamic moves to jugs and the exposure.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Nov 16, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Thanks Doug. I stopped partially because I was "told" to and partially because it was getting dark. But, yeah, the right corner didn't feel as exposed as Cheatah itself did and the last few juggy moves/exposure are worth going back for so I think I'll hit it again next weekend.

By Mark Wenzel
Nov 12, 2010

I took a big whipper off of the finishing moves when a wire pulled, I had pulled the crux, but messed up the easy exit mantle thingy (circa 1984ish).

Didn't help that it was my belayers first time holding the rope for a lead, much less a fall from a larger than average guy.

By Josh Knapp
From: East Troy, Wisconsin
Jun 19, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Despite its looks this route has great gear, a weird but bomb .5 c4 protects the first crux. Then the rest rest takes good gear the whole way up. Fantastic lead, great moves, and a must do!

By highnoonhilltopper
Nov 23, 2011

Aliens place much better than c4's on the lower half of this route.

By Tradoholic
Nov 24, 2011

Yes, but why is that true? I've found the bottom of this kinda hard to protect considering that its considered one of better protected climbs in the park.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Nov 24, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This is a well protected lead if you've had some DL rock craft under your belt. I wouldn't say that this is a route easy to protect, but it does take gear none the less. A better 10 lead would be... Congrats, Sometime, Green Slime, etc.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jul 10, 2012

Jay's comment up top sums it up. Great lead!