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Chica Bonita Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baby Blue Eyes 
Be My Yoko Ono 
Bessie 
Brown Eyed Girl 
Cheaper Than a Movie 
Dude Abides, The 
Flying The Bird 
Hot Drama Teacher 
I'll Take Sue 
Old English 
Pocahontas Path 
Raindancer 
Ridin' the Short Buzz 
Rinse and Repeat 
Size Doesn't Matter 
Spice of Life, The 
That's What She Said 
When Rats Attack 
You Take Sally 
Unsorted Routes:

Cheaper Than a Movie 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Matt Tackett, Jason Haas - 2005
Page Views: 3,435
Submitted By: eDixon on Nov 19, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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Lay back this long corner.

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Description 

The route ascends a long, right-facing dihedral towards the center of the wall. Climb up through a section of broken cracks to gain a cleaner, tight-hands crack in a corner. Follow the corner as it continues up and starts to arch to the right. When the corner ends, make a few moves on the slabby face to the two bolt anchor just below the top of the cliff.

  • The guidebook says that a single 60m rope is enough to lower off this route. It will be really close! It might be wise to use a 70m just to be safe.


Location 

Route ascends the obvious right-facing dihedral towards the center of the cliff.


Protection 

(2) sets of Camalots from #.4 - #75, (1) #1 - #4, a couple small - medium nuts could also be used.



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Enjoying the superb climbing on "Cheaper than a Movie".
Enjoying the superb climbing on "Cheaper than a Mo...
Cheaper Than A Movie
Cheaper Than A Movie
Cheaper Than A Movie
Cheaper Than A Movie
Anchors on Cheaper Than A Movie
Anchors on Cheaper Than A Movie
Cheaper Than A Movie
Cheaper Than A Movie
Cheaper Than A Movie
Cheaper Than A Movie
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By Bryan Hall
From: Bend, Oregon
Nov 8, 2011

Fantastic route. Eats gear wherever you might want it and gives you a hard 11c TR on Bessie when you are done. I carried doubles of #3 instead of a #4 and had no problems with gear on this.

60 meter rope does get you down, it's close though!

By Marlin Thorman
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

One of the best trad routes I have climbed in the Red! Super stellar, long, and great gear placements. Never used my BD #4.

By Casey the "Renaissance Man"
Jul 11, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Such a good line. The layback section will eat .75 cams, it's nice to take a couple along.

By Lou C
Jan 9, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

60m rope got me down with stretch.