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 ADVANCED
Chica Bonita Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baby Blue Eyes S 
Be My Yoko Ono T 
Bessie S 
Brown Eyed Girl S 
Cheaper Than a Movie T 
Dude Abides, The S 
Flying The Bird S 
Hellava Caucasian S 
Hot Drama Teacher S 
I'll Take Sue S 
Laying Pipe under the Bridge T 
Old English S 
Pocahontas Path S 
Raindancer S 
Ridin' the Short Buzz S 
Rinse and Repeat T 
Size Doesn't Matter S 
Spice of Life, The T 
That's What She Said S 
When Rats Attack S 
You Take Sally S 
Unsorted Routes:

Cheaper Than a Movie 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Matt Tackett, Jason Haas - 2005
Page Views: 4,345
Submitted By: eDixon on Nov 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (57)
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Lay back this long corner.

Description 

The route ascends a long, right-facing dihedral towards the center of the wall. Climb up through a section of broken cracks to gain a cleaner, tight-hands crack in a corner. Follow the corner as it continues up and starts to arch to the right. When the corner ends, make a few moves on the slabby face to the two bolt anchor just below the top of the cliff.

  • The guidebook says that a single 60m rope is enough to lower off this route. It will be really close! It might be wise to use a 70m just to be safe.

Location 

Route ascends the obvious right-facing dihedral towards the center of the cliff.

Protection 

(2) sets of Camalots from #.4 - #75, (1) #1 - #4, a couple small - medium nuts could also be used.


Photos of Cheaper Than a Movie Slideshow Add Photo
Enjoying the superb climbing on "Cheaper than...
Enjoying the superb climbing on "Cheaper than...
Cheaper Than A Movie
Cheaper Than A Movie
Cheaper Than A Movie
Cheaper Than A Movie
Anchors on Cheaper Than A Movie
Anchors on Cheaper Than A Movie
Cheaper Than A Movie
Cheaper Than A Movie
Cheaper Than A Movie
Cheaper Than A Movie
Seconding Cheaper than a Movie with Brown Eyed Gir...
Seconding Cheaper than a Movie with Brown Eyed Gir...

Comments on Cheaper Than a Movie Add Comment
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By Bryan Hall
From: Bend, Oregon
Nov 8, 2011

Fantastic route. Eats gear wherever you might want it and gives you a hard 11c TR on Bessie when you are done. I carried doubles of #3 instead of a #4 and had no problems with gear on this.

60 meter rope does get you down, it's close though!
By Marlin Thorman
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

One of the best trad routes I have climbed in the Red! Super stellar, long, and great gear placements. Never used my BD #4.
By Casey the "Renaissance Man"
Jul 11, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Such a good line. The layback section will eat .75 cams, it's nice to take a couple along.
By Lou C
Jan 9, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

60m rope got me down with stretch.